1940s Archive

Food Flashes

Originally Published July 1947

Sky in July is the best roof. As often as not we eat dinner outdoors. Crisping meat perfumes the air; again an abundance of steaks, chops, chickens to broil over charcoal. House of Herbs has a new sauce ready for the summer barbecue bouts. Tomato purée for the base blended with broth made of meat an chicken extract and a combination of vinegars spiked with nine different herbs. Into the finished job go freshly chopped tarragon, fennel, dill, and sweet marjoram. It's a sauce about as thick as a thick French dressing, the exact red- brown of a new saddle, with flecks of herbs to promise surprise. The sauce is for use in cooking almost any kind of meat. Add it to the pan fat in frying chops; use it for basting poultry or roasts of beef or lamb; use it as a table sauce. It would give a nice zip even to a Dead Sea fruit. A plain but honest bean soup is transfigured by a single drop, and there is nothing wrong with adding it to the French dressing.

It blends its flavor with baked ham in a way to make the taste buds hol consultation: What a flavor! Is it dill? Or maybe tarragon? Could it be fennel? Or is it sweet marjoram? But first of all it's ham we're eating. What an unusual taste to the crust. A taste any ham might covet and could easily acquire by this barbecue treatment: After boiling the ham, coat it over with a paste made of thick sour cream in a half-and-half mixture with herbal mustard. The ham is baked forty minutes, then the basting starts. Every twenty minutes spoon over the barbecue sauce until the sour-cream coating takes on a red-brown blush.

The twelve-ounce jar sells for $1 at Lewis and Conger's herb shop, first floor, Sixth Avenue and 45th Street.

Picnic packers should stock a supply of those wee macaroons, twenty-four to a tin, each one of half-dollar size. Tender little cakes with just the right pull for the teeth, the right chewiness, bake gently golden with a fresh, fresh flavor. The cakes are packed as they come from the oven, not to be opened until ready to eat. Price 39 or 40 cents, selling in Manhattan at Wanamaker, Broadway at 9th Street, Hammacher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th Street, Charles and Company, 340 Madison Avenue, packed by Town and Country Food Products in Brooklyn.

Now that the pantry's emergency shelf is again for unexpected guests an not for unexpected shortages, these macaroons should have a nice spot of space for themselves. Good to serve with canned fruit or with tea or ice cream and, as we were saying—a thumping contribution to the picnic kit.

Maybe you have tried smoked oysters and weren't really impressed. Try again, try the “smoky” traveling out of Oysterville, Washington. Pleasant to behold, light to reddish-brown in its coloring, no dark, shrunken, shriveled old toughies to discourage the palate.

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