1940s Archive

Food Flashes

Originally Published April 1947

Brooks boil. Apple bloom is on the back of the wind. Peepers shrill the news, the year's at the spring. Lambs frolic to market. Leg of lamb today; tomorrow lamb leftover, prepared as a curry.

A curry sauce newly arrived on the market is made by home-kitchen careerist Vera Sanville, a sauce rich of oil, rosy of tomatoes, subtly exotic in its spicy alchemy. The little pint jar contains all the needful ingredients for a genuine curry, every last thing but the meat, fish, or fowl. It's a sauce long cooked; a poem to put into the mouth. It's a concentrated sauce to be thinned with water or stock, an ever-ready item to have handy on the shelf to run up a quick repast when the occasion demands it.

Infinite are its uses. Add a small amount to the soup for the zest of spice. Spread the sauce over chops, then slide them under the broiler, mix it with chopped meat, blend it with cream cheese for the prickle of heat it gives to a sandwich. Mix it in a cheese sauce to blanket poached eggs. Add a spoonful to mayonnaise and exult in its spiciness, so right for salads of fruit. It gives the curry treatment to any leftover meat as well as shrimp, lobster, and chicken. Hard-cook half a dozen eggs and heat them in the curry sauce; serve in a rice ring.

This sauce, a family recipe from the British West Indies, begins with the frying of onions, parsley, and celery in a pure olive oil. Tomatoes are added, either the fresh or the canned, next the curry powder, then the long cooking. Pint jars are selling in New York City for around $1.35 at B. Altman and Company, Fifth Avenue and 34th Street, Farm and Garden Shop, 30 Rockefeller Plaza, Vendome Table Delicacies, 415 Madison Avenue, H. Hicks and Sons, 30 West 57th Street, Charles and Company, 340 Madison Avenue, and Hammacher Schlemmer, 145 East 57th Street.

Bees are busy. Lilac buds unfold. Fruit salads return. Bring on the mayonnaise, one flavored with curry, a beautiful product, sun-colored, smooth as whipped butter. This too is homemade by a Mrs. Robert Dehlendorf and selling like crazy in numerous shops in New York. The goodness of the mayonnaise is the goodness of its ingredients. Pure corn oil, fresh country eggs, herb vinegar, lemon juice, onion salt, garlic salt, dry mustard, a dash of cayenne, all whipped to velvety smoothness. Richtasting the flavor, tanged with fresh lemon.

The curried mayonnaise is the same mayonnaise with an addition of a very fine imported curry powder. Mrs. Dehlendorf suggests its use with fried oysters, on smoked turkey canapés, as a dip for shrimp when it's served as a cocktail canapé, and with salads of fresh fruit.

The first asparagus pokes a cold nose from the ground. Mrs. Dehlendorf's homemade hollandaise comes into its own as a dressing for the green spears. This sauce is a combination of fresh egg yolks, freshly reamed lemon juice, creamery butter with garlic and onion salt, dry mustard, and a dash of cayenne as the seasoners. This item, like the mayonnaise, is blended in a homogenizer so it holds up without separation and right through reheating.

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