1940s Archive

Food Flashes

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Mincemeat pudding is the new idea in a tin-packed dessert, which after steaming, turns out a pudding moist, light-textured, mild in spice, with millions of raisins. If there is mincemeat in this, it isn't obvious; neither is the flavor of brandy you are promised on reading the label. However, this is a fill-em-up pudding and one not overrich and not overexpensive. The eighteen-ounce size sells for around 69 cents at B. Altman's grocery counter, Fifth Avenue at 34th Street.

The “flu” bug bomb dived into the pre-Christmas plans of the Farm Home Food Delicacies folk out Watertown, Wisconsin, way. Right at the most critical preholiday moment when they should have been dressing geese, a flock every few minutes, the farm manager and his wife were laid low with the bug. The point is that Christmas has gone, New Year's has gone, and the Farm Home Food Delicacies have geese left for market. The regular price is $9.75 for thirteen- to fifteen-pound birds, express prepaid, except to Florida, Texas, and the West Coast.

The goose is drawn, then frozen and shipped to you in a special wooden box, along with a booklet which gives directions for preparing the big bird in such a manner as to result in upwards of two pounds of goose lard. That's fancy shortening, you know. The booklet gives recipes for goose stuffings, for preparing Grieben (deep fat-fried goose skin), a recipe for stuffing the goose neck with a sort of sausage made of the goose liver, and a recipe for using the remaining giblets in a goose soup—and what a soup!

March is last call on the game birds. The Berkshire Game Farm, Craryville, New York, has pheasants, mallard ducks, chukar partridge, and the bobwhite quail available for express delivery. If these are for home use, order the birds already dressed; it costs not a penny more and saves the cook's patience. But if it's a gift, send the birds in their feathers; they are more beautiful so and their arrival makes for more splurge. As to price, by the brace, that is two birds, pheasants are $12, mallard ducks $6, chukar partridge $12, bobwhite quail $6, all prices including regular shipping costs. If the birds are air expressed to distant points, the charge is additional. Each package for big measure carries a jar of homemade currant jelly, the perfect table accompaniment for a wild bird.

The Berkshire Game Farm was originally a hunting lodge which Don Spencer, a New York advertising man, took over three years ago and turned into a licensed shooting preserve. The place consists of 1,482 acres of open fields, woods, and marshland, located in the Taconic Range of the Berkshires in Columbia County, 125 miles north of New York City. It is heavily stocked, and the birds are fed fattening grains to produce meat of the finest texture which runs with red juices for making gravies and sauces.

There is no fish in the diet of farm-raised mallards, so no taint to their flavor. Roasting directions for each bird are included with your order along with menu trips. If you order the pheasant, try it à la Berkshire, the directions in the booklet.

A plump, tasty morsel is the bobwhite quail, the proud little fellow with the white bib. Split down the back and fry in butter or broil, or roast the bird whole. One quail to an eater is the usual portion. Serve it on toast, the very dish of dishes with which the railway moguls and mining millionaires regaled their guests in the gilded Victorian hostelries. The toast should be made of day-old bread, sliced thin, the crust removed, well browned, then sliced diagonally. Place the quail on the toast and pour on the gravy.

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