Recently, I wrote an item for the Gourmet Weekly newsletter about Kilchoman, a new Scottish farm distillery that grows and malts its grain on site. In the process, I came across a few interesting spirits producers in this country, including one—Belmont Farms—that's actually growing the corn for its whisky. I haven't had a chance to taste their Virginia Lightning yet, but I have had—and liked—Tuthilltown Spirits' Old Gristmill corn whisky. They've recently released two Ryes, which have been getting great reviews, but next on my list to taste from Tuthilltown is their Heart of the Hudson Vodka, made from apples grown in the Hudson Valley. Most of the artisanal spirits being produced in this country are made from fruit, and some of them are great. In a few places, where development pressures have all but eliminated agriculture, they're also the only reason orchards haven't been ripped out of the ground. Michigan's Black Star Farms buys fruit from local growers who are no longer able to compete commercially with cheap imports. Distillation adds value to homegrown crops.
Unfortunately, many of the whiskies have been less satisfying. I assume the explanation is that fruit eaux-de-vie are delicious straight off the still, whereas whisky needs time in good wood to become the rich, complex drink we've come to expect from the best Bourbons, Scotches, Ryes, and blended whiskies. Time is money, and starting up a distillery isn't cheap. Waiting seven years to sell your first bottle is probably out of the question. It's frustrating, though—I want to support the small producers, but it's got to taste good. As much as I love Charbay's vodkas, I wasn't wild about their Hop Flavored Whiskey (tasted three years ago). Likewise, Clear Creek Distillery makes world-class fruit brandies, but when I tasted their Single Malt Whiskey several years ago I found it pretty unpleasant. I'm also not a big fan of the Old Potrero whiskies. But I couldn't be happier that these and other distillers are taking on the challenge, and as long as they're making 'em I'll keep tasting 'em.
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