As for our fondue, chocolate is never easy on a dessert wine, but Merryvale Antigua, a Muscat de Frontignan blend of wines drawn from vintages that go back to 1970, has the power to withstand chocolate's underlying bitterness yet still marries well with the accompanying raspberries and macaroons. Mendelson's Napa Valley Muscat Canelli is mildly creamy on the palate. Beaulieu Vineyards Muscat de Beaulieu, another Muscat de Frontignan, has a flavor reminiscent of preserved apricots; it is less powerful but more seductive.
RECOMMENDED WINES
SUPPER IN THE KITCHEN
NEW ZEALAND RIESLINGS
Aurum, Central Otago '06. . . . . . . $17
Lake Chalice, Marlborough '06. . . . . . . $16
Peregrine, Rastasburn, Central Otago '05. . . . . . . $24
Rippon, Lake Wanaka, Central Otago '04. . . . . . . $20
Saint Clair, Marlborough '05. . . . . . . $16
Villa Maria, Marlborough, Cellar Selection '06. . . . . . . $19
CARMIGNANO AND BARCO REALE
Ambra, Barco Reale '05. . . . . . . $13
Ambra, Le Vigne Alte, Carmignano Riserva '01. . . . . . . $29
Piaggia, Il Sasso, Carmignano '04. . . . . . . $32
Villa di Capezzana, Barco Reale '03. . . . . . . $15
Villa di Capezzana, Carmignano '03. . . . . . . $25
ROMANTIC DINNER
BLANC DE BLANCS CHAMPAGNES
Charles Heidsieck, Blanc des Millénaires '95. . . . . . . $95
Louis Roederer, Blanc de Blancs '00. . . . . . . $73
Mumm, Mumm de Cramant. . . . . . . $60
Taittinger, Comtes de Champagne '98. . . . . . . $150
CALIFORNIA RED WINES
Beaulieu Vineyard, Napa Valley, Tapestry Reserve '03. . . . . . . $45
Beringer, Knights Valley, Alluvium '02. . . . . . . $30
Chimney Rock, Stags Leap District, Elevage '03. . . . . . . $76
Corley, Napa Valley, Proprietary Red Wine '03. . . . . . . $50
Joseph Phelps Vineyards, Napa Valley, Insignia '03. . . . . . . $165
Viader, Napa Valley '03. . . . . . . $90
Von Strasser, Diamond Mountain District, Reserve '04. . . . . . . $100
CALIFORNIA MUSCATS
Beaulieu Vineyards, Muscat de Beaulieu (375 ml). . . . . . . $15
Mendelson, Napa Valley, Muscat Canelli '02 (375 ml). . . . . . . $30
Merryvale, Antigua (500 ml). . . . . . . $30
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