Now That The Dust Has Settled in Napa

Sharp: happy in hardhat, optimistic about opening.

They say hotels never open on time, and I had no reason to doubt them (whomever they are) after popping into Solage back in April. The sprawling new hotel, in Calistoga at the north end of the Napa Valley, was one big construction site. But I could tell already that it wasn't going to be the typical Wine Country retreat, even though Solage is a spin-off of Auberge Resorts, whose top-of-the-line places are farther along the Silverado Trail. Solage doesn't hang over the valley, like Auberge du Soleil, or tuck into the hills, like Calistoga Ranch. It's right on the road for all to see, set on a sprawling lot that reminded me more of a housing development than a resort. And it's not aiming for those high-end couples from New York and San Francisco who can afford $600 a night. The 89 rooms here are called Studios and they're mostly all the same—minimalist, loft-like, and filled with high-tech gadgets. The swimming pool is huge and in the middle of an esplanade of lounge chairs and palm trees, with a bar at one end and a spa at the other. Solbar, the bistro, is housed in an airplane-hanger of a space that could easily host a barn dance. In other words, South Beach has arrived in Napa. Solage is for a young crowd that wants to socialize, to see and be seen, to partake of Napa style without breaking the bank. At least that's the hope. While that doesn't make everyone in the valley happy, the resort didn't seem any different to me than the low-rise condos next door, so I'm willing to give it a chance. In hiring Brandon Sharp, a chef who last worked at Gary Danko in San Francisco, Solage is at least sending a message that food matters. Brandon joined me for the hardhat tour on the day of my visit, and his pride was showing when we got to the kitchen. It looked far from ready to me, despite all the shiny chrome countertops, so I asked: "Are you really going to open by summer?" Brandon didn't blink: "We're going to make it. July at the latest," he said, beaming as he looked around the dust-filled expanse he was about to take over. Fast-forward three months and—presto—Solage opens for business today and is sold out for the weekend. They got it wrong. Brandon was right. And I bet he's rather busy right now.