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chefs + restaurants
First Re-taste: HotChocolate
An old haunt still offers some of the best pastry around—if the morning hordes haven’t snapped it up.
02.14.08
- Keywords
- first taste,
- david tamarkin,
- dessert,
- chicago
chefs + restaurants
First Taste: L20
Laurent Gras has the skill and, perhaps more importantly, the judgment to find a near-perfect meeting ground of pristine product and chefly invention.
05.22.08
- Keywords
- first taste,
- john willoughby,
- chicago,
- laurent gras,
- molecular gastronomy
chefs + restaurants
First Taste: Urban Belly
White-tablecloth dining comes down to street-food form, and the stunning results speak for themselves.
09.29.08
- Keywords
- david tamarkin,
- first taste,
- chicago,
- asian,
- bill kim
chefs + restaurants
Sohn Fine With Foie Gras Fine
Doug Sohn, the first chef in town to be ticketed for serving foie gras,was slapped with a fine of $250, the minimum penalty.
03.30.07
- Keywords
- restaurant notes,
- ingredients,
- meat,
- food policy,
- legislation
food + cooking
Giving up on Latkes
My relatives would probably be horrified at the idea of eating fried chicken at Hanukkah, but when you live in a wasteland of sorts, you make do.
12.15.08
- Keywords
- david tamarkin,
- culinary culture,
- hanukkah,
- poultry,
- chicago
Along the Boulevards
To the judgment of this department, one of the most fascinating manifestations of the American hotel and restaurant scene has been Ernie Byfield.
November 1947
- Keywords
- lucius beebe,
- along the boulevards,
- hotels,
- travel,
- chicago
chefs + restaurants
The Check Please Effect
How a local television show is making (and breaking) the restaurant business.
05.08.08
- Keywords
- restaurant notes,
- david tamarkin,
- chicago,
- culinary culture,
- middle eastern
chefs + restaurants
First Taste: The Publican
This restaurant is a place of worship for perfect mollusks, housemade sausages, and, of course, beer. Yet what tops them all is the crisp, juicy chicken.
11.14.08
- Keywords
- david tamarkin,
- first taste,
- chicago,
- paul kahan,
- poultry
chefs + restaurants
First Taste: graham elliot
It’s hard to notice anything else when there’s a root beer–glazed pork chop topped with corn nuts and watermelon sitting in front of you.
07.07.08
- Keywords
- first taste,
- david tamarkin,
- chicago,
- graham elliot bowles
wine + spirits + beer
Infused Ice
The hottest thing to hit alcoholic drinks is ice—steeped with a shot of herbs, spices, or fruit flavor.
10.17.08
- Keywords
- julia langbein,
- cocktail,
- mixology,
- spirits,
- paris








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