When Graham Elliot Bowles was in the process of opening his eponymous new solo project, graham elliot, there was a lot of talk about “bistronomics.” Bowles used the term (ad nauseam) to describe how the restaurant would be a cross between a casual environment—like that of a bistro—and Avenues, the upscale place where he’d built his reputation with five-hour-long tasting menus and Champagne carts.
Despite this philosophy, the restaurant’s décor, while comfortable—with light colored hardwood floors and shadowboxes filled with lemons—isn’t strikingly down-home. And the inexpensive touches Bowles is so proud of—plates from Ikea, servers wearing Converse kicks and jeans—barely register. It’s hard to notice such subtleties when there’s a root beer–glazed pork chop topped with corn nuts and watermelon sitting in front of you.
The corn nuts and watermelon turn out to be an inspired combination. So do ranch-flavored popcorn and potato chips, which take the place of the more traditional bread basket. Honey-lavender chicken with a fried pickle and potato salad? I wanted to put it in a basket and take it on a picnic. And just when I thought Bowles was on the verge of getting too gimmicky (Buffalo chicken with Budweiser foam), he sent out a beautiful gnocchi with fried egg and truffle oil; a gorgeous gazpacho spiked with crab; and a crumbly, rich chocolate brownie sandwich filled with peanut butter and accompanied by roasted banana. Each of these dishes delivered classic flavors, perfectly executed, and made his more playful stuff taste that much sweeter.
graham elliot 217 W. Huron St., Chicago, IL (312-624-9975; grahamelliot.com)
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