Los Angeles: Tavern

Suzanne Goin and sommelier Carolyn Styne—the team behind L.A.’s Lucques and AOC restaurants—say they never thought of opening a third place in upscale Brentwood. But something caught their collective eye in a shuttered Hamburger Hamlet space. First, they broke the big corner property into sections, creating a sage-colored dining room in back, a bar in the middle (the original sky-high Hamlet atrium), and a “larder” in front with an in-house bakery and deli case selling take-out versions of Goin’s greatest hits, like bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with parmesan. Although “Hamburger Hamlet” is still emblazoned on the valet sign, Tavern’s kitchen is already going in full gear. Our starters—a spring vegetable salad with creamy Burrata, olives, and Meyer lemon; duck sausage with pancetta, frisée, and kumquat marmalade; and roasted asparagus with polenta, thinly shaved pecorino, and a Tavern riff on a Scotch egg, soft-cooked and crisply fried—were devoured in a breath. And if there is anything that can beat Goin’s breadcrumb-covered, mustardy Devil’s chicken thighs with braised leeks for sheer comfy deliciousness, please send it my way.

Tavern 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles (310-806-6464; tavernla.com).



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