Los Angeles: STREET

In the ’80s, I lived within walking distance of the pocket-sized City Café. Owned by Two Hot Tamales’ Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken, it was a delicious, welcoming place where you might find the two chef/owners in the back alley grilling meat on a cast-iron hibachi because there wasn’t room in their itty-bitty kitchen. STREET, Feniger’s first Milliken-less project, captures the same warmth and culinary excitement in its menu, which reads like a world tour of street food. There are Egyptian koshary (spiced rice, lentils, and pasta alongside stewed collard greens), delectable puffs of potato, sweet chutney, and sprouted beans known as panni poori, and a Vietnamese dish of fresh corn wok-cooked with spring onions and bits of pork belly. Thai Bites turn out to be rounds of raw collard green leaves that you smear with tamarind paste and sprinkle with bird chiles, peanuts, and toasted coconut, then eat like a quickie roll-up. Outdoors, there’s a two-tiered dining patio with a fire pit and a window offering a peek into a bustling kitchen that, thirty-plus years later, isn’t much bigger than City’s was.

Street 742 N. Highland Ave., Los Angeles (323-203-0500; eatatstreet.com)



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