Despite all the amazing flavors at Takashi (the ethereal lobster sausage anchored in a bowl of a creamy artichoke soup comes to mind), despite how charming it is to eat in a homey A-frame, and despite the friendly and unassuming attitude of the staff, the most striking thing about this restaurant is that nobody—not a single person—seems to have uttered a bad word about the place.
Naturally, this made me kind of skeptical at the outset. (Years of rushing out to see Oscar-nominated movies has taught me to be wary of hype.) And besides, Chef Takashi Yagahashi’s last restaurant, a quick-service noodle shop on the seventh floor of the Macy’s on State Street, had garnered only lukewarm reviews.
But now I’m just one more voice in the chorus singing Takashi’s praises, because the flavors here are among the most intricate Chicago currently has to offer. Sheer slices of hamachi are topped with monkfish liver, creating a dish that morphs with each bite—moving from clean and bright to lush and savory. Pork belly bao get a slathering of hot Japanese mustard that cuts through their rich succulence. Potato-and-prosciutto-wrapped salmon is crisp and delicate one moment, deliciously fatty the next. And a lamb’s milk panna cotta vacillates so brilliantly between sweet and tart that you’ll forget if you’re ending your meal or just beginning it.
Was every little thing perfect? No. If pressed, I could quibble about some minor details. But, in fact, that’s actually how I like it. Because until Takashi serves me that perfect meal, I have a reason to keep going back.
Takashi, 1952 N. Damen Ave., Chicago (773-772-6170)
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