Go Back
Print this page

Chefs + Restaurants

Making a Pig for Oneself


Fergus Henderson, the beloved chef's chef and co-owner of London's St. John restaurant is publishing a follow-up to his cult hit Nose to Tail Eating (published in the U.S. as The Whole Beast). In London last week, I was fortunate enough to sneak a peek at the galleys (sorry, Fergus), and I can't wait to lay hands on a copy. Beyond Nose to Tail focuses in large part on baking and desserts. "Nose to Tail Eating was admittedly short on the world of puddings, baking and bread," writes Henderson in his preface, "but we now have a chance to correct that failing with the aid of Justin Piers Gellatly, my pastry chef and head baker, who has spread his pastry wings and taken us beyond Nose to Tail." Henderson is best known for his love of all things soffal, of course, and fans of the guts-and-all aspect of this oeuvre won't be disappointed. Dishes range from salted back fat with wet walnuts to chicken and ox-tongue pie to pig cheeks and dandelion. There is an entire chapter devoted to pig's heads. The recipe for braised squirrel, however, may be too much for even the most devoted fans. (The book will be published in August in the U.K.; you can pre-order via the restaurant's website.)