Things We Love: Daniel Humm's Foie Gras Creme Brulee

12.21.06

In New York, the case against foie gras has begun to pick up steam. A growing number of activists feel that the means necessary to produce foie gras are overly cruel and the delicacy should be banned. Obviously, they have never eaten Daniel Humm's foie gras creme brulee at Manhattan's Eleven Madison Park. The texture, which is as smooth and creamy as any creme brulee you've ever had, topped with a perfect crunch of caramelized sugar, is a reminder of why classic French cuisine will never really go out of style. The taste, a not-as-savory-as-you-might-expect umami bomb, is a terrific surprise, tasting of foie gras but managing to avoid the unctuous, tongue-coating fattiness that can accompany it. The first time I had it, it was a complete surprise, an amuse-bouche sent out by chef Humm's kitchen to let you know that your meal is going to be totally awesome. Although it's no longer an amuse, you can still get it--even though it's not on the menu. The foie gras course is currently listed as a terrine with port gelee, golden raisins, and hazelnuts, though it changes frequently. But if you order it, you will get, in addition to the outstanding terrine, the creme brulee and a perfectly toasted slice of brioche, which you will no doubt use to wipe the ramekin clean.

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