The beauty of
creamed leeks is that they are, at heart, a country dish, but they have an undeniable glamour that makes people fall on them with cries of joy. I think it must be the texture, which goes all lush and velvety once the leeks have been cooked in butter and then baked in cream. I think it’s also the surprise element: Leeks are usually considered an ingredient rather than a vegetable that can stand on its own. I would take creamed leeks, in fact, over creamed onions or creamed spinach any day. They’re delicious with turkey, of course, but are also wonderful with roast chicken or a gorgeous hunk of rare beef. —Jane Daniels Lear, Senior Articles Editor