This is one of those dishes that became an instant
we-have-to-have-this-every-year addition to my Thanksgiving table. For one
thing, this is the easiest possible way to make sweet potatoes—you simply throw them into the oven and roast them (as an added bonus, you can squeeze them between the pans). Roasting brings out the lush, silken character of the sweet potatoes, and the miso-scallion butter (which takes about a minute to make) gives them an unexpectedly robust and masculine character. They’re so good, so simple, so satisfying, that I keep miso on hand so I can make them all year round. —Ruth Reichl, Editor in Chief
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