2000s Recipes + Menus

Preserved Green Papaya Soup with Lobster and Turmeric

Serves 8 to 16
  • Active time:1 hr
  • Start to finish:2 hr
ADAPTED FROM DAVID MYERS
October 2008
Since the papaya is “preserved” in sugar, this is unusually sweet for a first course, and it could be an intermezzo or part of a tasting menu.

Watch David Myers, chef and owner of Sona and comme Ça in Los Angeles, discuss the creative process behind this recipe.

For lobster

  • 2 (1 1/4- to 1 1/2-lb) live lobsters

For soup

  • 1 teaspoon coriander seeds
  • 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
  • 1/2 teaspoon white peppercorns
  • 1 lb green (unripe) papaya, peeled, seeded, and cut into 1-inch pieces (about 3 cups)
  • 2 cups water
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1 cup well-stirred canned unsweetened coconut milk
  • 6 mint sprigs
  • 6 cilantro sprigs
  • 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
  • 1/4 teaspoon Tabasco
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt

For turmeric

  • 1 1/2 oz fresh turmeric, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks (1/4 cup; wear protective gloves to prevent staining)
  • 1 fresh serrano chile
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1/2 cup sugar

For tapioca

  • 6 cups water
  • 1/4 cup small tapioca pearls (not instant)

  • Equipment:

    cheesecloth; kitchen string

  • Garnish:

    chopped shallots and chives; fleur de sel

Prepare lobster:

  • Plunge lobsters headfirst, 1 at a time, into an 8-qt pot of boiling salted water (3 Tbsp salt for 6 qt water). Cook, covered, over high heat 6 minutes (for a 1 1/4-lb lobster) or 7 minutes (for a 1 1/2-lb lobster) from the time it enters the water. Transfer with tongs to a large colander to drain.
  • Remove meat from tail and claws, keeping it intact. Reserve tomalley, any roe, and shells for another use. Chill lobster meat, covered, until cold, at least 1 hour.
  • Just before serving, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices.

Meanwhile, make soup:

  • Toast spices in a dry small heavy skillet over medium-low heat, stirring often, until fragrant and several shades darker, about 5 minutes. Wrap in a square of cheesecloth and tie with string.
  • Simmer papaya in water with spices and sugar in a heavy medium saucepan, stirring until sugar has dissolved, until very tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in coconut milk, mint, and cilantro and simmer 15 minutes. Discard herbs and spice bundle. Purée soup in batches in a blender until very smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids; soup will be thick). If you have less than 4 cups, add water. Transfer to a shallow bowl and chill in freezer, stirring occasionally, until cold, 30 to 45 minutes. Whisk in lime juice, Tabasco, and salt. Season with lime juice and additional salt.

Prepare turmeric in syrup while soup chills:

  • Cover turmeric with water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Drain in a sieve and rinse with cold water, then return to pan. Repeat 2 times.
  • Meanwhile, slit chile lengthwise, keeping attached at stem.
  • Cook turmeric at a bare simmer with water (1/2 cup), sugar, and chile in saucepan, stirring until sugar has dissolved, until translucent, about 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature. Discard chile and drain turmeric, reserving syrup and turmeric separately.

Meanwhile, make tapioca:

  • Bring water to a rolling boil in a heavy medium saucepan, then add tapioca and boil, stirring occasionally, until translucent all the way through, about 25 minutes. Drain in a sieve and rinse with cold water. Stir together with 3 Tbsp turmeric syrup in a small bowl (reserve remainder).

To serve:

  • Divide soup among shallow bowls, then spoon some tapioca into center of bowls. Sprinkle turmeric around it and drizzle with some syrup. Add lobster and drizzle with additional syrup.
Cooks’ notes:
  • Lobster meat, soup, turmeric syrup, and turmeric can be made 1 day ahead and chilled.
  • Tapioca can be cooked and combined with 3 Tbsp turmeric syrup 1 day ahead and kept in an airtight container at room temperature.
Keywords
david myers,
asian,
seafood,
web-exclusive recipes,
papaya

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