2000s Archive

Value in Vegas

Originally Published October 2009
Sin City visitors seem to have two choices: go upscale at celebrity-chef venues or prowl the nearest hotel buffet. But a number of restaurants offer a surprising bang for your buck.

Remarkable food can be found beyond the Strip’s neon glow.


At Aburiya Raku (5030 W. Spring Mountain Rd.; 702-367-3511), Mitsuo Endo elevates Japanese pub food to new heights. He eschews sushi in favor of robata-yaki (charcoal-grilled dishes) and tops agedashi-dofu with salmon roe and mushrooms.


During weekend brunch at Simon at Palms Place (4381 W. Flamingo Rd.; 702-944-3292), Kerry Simon lays out a globe-spanning spread that includes made-to-order sushi, terrific fried chicken and waffles, and a mix-your-own Bloody Mary bar.

Saipin Chutima’s strip-mall spot Lotus of Siam (953 E. Sahara Ave.; 702-735-3033) has probably garnered more national attention than any other local restaurant, thanks to her thrilling take on Isaan and Chiang Mai–style Thai dishes (and a splendid wine list stocked with German and Austrian Rieslings).

Caesars Palace’s Beijing Noodle No. 9 (3570 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 877-346-4642) serves breathtaking soup dumplings, handmade noodles, and Beijing-style salt-and-pepper chicken.

At Settebello (140 Green Valley Pkwy.; 702-222-3556), in Henderson, vera pizza napoletana is served uncut; the ultra-thin, chewy crust is meant to be torn apart by hand.

You enter Marché Bacchus (2620 Regatta Dr.; 702-804-8008) through a boutique wine shop, where you can choose a bottle—retail price plus $10 at table—to accompany homemade charcuterie, seafood paella, or lobster potpie.

For the city’s best Cuban sandwich, salmon on a dilled brioche, or decadent raspberry brownies, slip into the always crowded Snacks (3600 Las Vegas Blvd. S.; 702-693-7111), tucked between the Bellagio’s poker room and its Race & Sports Book.

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