2000s Archive

Local Pioneers

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Savoy

Over nearly two decades, the once-funky Savoy has quietly grown up in scary-turned-chic SoHo. But as the fickle glitterati have begun to spurn the neighborhood for being “so over,” Savoy has only gotten more mature and self-assured. You’ll want to live in the dining room, all warm woods, fireplace, and natural light. Peter Hoffman’s cooking is straightforward, showcasing his farmers, but can still surprise. A bite of black lentils under squares of crisp pork belly may reveal a burst of tarragon, or a dollop of pesto on a fabulous tomato may turn out to be an icy celery granita. And what could be passé about that? 70 Prince St., New York City (212-219-8570)

Zingerman’s Roadhouse

Sprawling and lively, Zingerman’s is a mecca for locally sourced American food. They bake their own breads, cakes, and cookies and produce cream cheese, fresh goat cheese, and gelato. But the nine-page tabloid menu doesn’t stop there—there’s lake perch and walleye caught nearby, and beef brisket smoked out back. “Really good American food has to start with really good American ingredients,” says the menu, and no restaurant is working harder to prove that point. 2501 Jackson Rd., Ann Arbor, MI (734-663-3663)

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