Overpriced concerts by groups of varying quality may be the only way to hear Mozart ringing from the High Baroque flourishes of St. Nicholas Church or Smetana sounding amid the Art Nouveau glory of the Municipal House (tickets at the venues or Ticketpro, Na Prˇíkopeˇ 20; 2-96-32-99-99; www.ticketpro.cz). But try to catch the Czech Philharmonic at the Rudolfinum, where you’ll find real prices and actual Praguers (Nam. Jana Palacha; 2-27-05-92-27; www.ceskafilharmonie.cz).
Check out the country’s excellent collection of 19th- and 20th-century art at Veletrzˇní Palace, a 1928 Functionalist building created to host trade fairs. (Dukelsky´ch Hrdinu˚ 47; 2-24-30-10-24). Originally built as a department store in the Cubist style, House of the Black Madonna (Celetná 34; 2-24-21-17-46) offers a small but well-focused display of Czech Cubism. And do not miss the Museum of Communism (Na Prˇíkopeˇ 10; 2-24-21-29-66), worth visiting just to see what Wenceslas Square looked like before Marks & Spencer. —M.K.
Pinterest
