And so, later that year, he took a huge gamble. With the help of Olson (who had made a bundle when he leased out his own land), Mariani leased the largest parcel of the family farm from his estranged brother, and called it Andy’s Orchard.
Today, the 45-acre farm is home to some 250 varieties of cherries, peaches, nectarines, apricots, and plums (including what I believe to be the most intensely delicious fruit in the world, the tender, honey-flavored European greengage plum). Mariani sells some fruit through commercial shippers and local, regional, and farmers markets, and other kinds only at his on-site store. (In a drying yard behind his packing shed, he also produces fabulously meaty, flavorful dried apricots, peaches, and nectarines.) Unlike many growers, who have tried to boost their businesses through “family entertainment,” Mariani spurns things like hay rides and petting zoos. “This is a working farm,” he says. “It’s not Disneyland.”
But necessity dictates that Mariani’s orchard is no museum, either. “I have to tread a fine line,” he says, “between what I can do and what the ideal is.” He dislikes the current style of all-red-skinned, crunchy, low-acid peaches and nectarines, but some of his favorite varieties are recent, such as Zee Lady, a yellow peach with a rich, classic taste. “I select fruit for flavor,” he says, “whether it’s an heirloom or modern variety.”
Despite everything, Mariani remains undaunted. He lives frugally and spends seven days a week among his trees. Nobody’s quite sure whether he’ll be able to continue this way (Olson: “My brain says no, but my heart says yes”), but given how much he’s overcome, the odds look pretty good.
Andy’s Orchard sells fresh fruit at its country store and dried fruit by mail order, and also conducts regular educational tours and tastings. (1615 Half Road, Morgan Hill; 408-782-7600; andysorchard.com)
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