Some of the more structured cru Beaujolais (particularly Moulin-à-Vent) might improve with a bit of bottle age, but the vibrancy of the young fruit is one of the wine's great charms. Because some of the better producers use little or no sulfur, there is a greater risk of spoilage in the bottle, one that obviously increases over time. Besides, these wines epitomize that great French word gouleyant (usually translated as “gulpable,” but that fails to capture its beautiful onomatopoeia), and they deserve to be enjoyed in all their youthful glory.
Beaujolais
Georges Duboeuf Morgon 2003 $11
Very forward blackberry aromas. Big and soft, with good balancing acidity. Finishes clean.
Georges Duboeuf Saint-Amour 2003 $13
Pretty nose—cherry pie? Very soft, but not flabby. Hint of tannins at the end.
Pierre Chermette Beaujolais 2003 $13
Nose initially a bit reserved. Berries soon fill the glass. A bit tart, but with nice fruit flavors. One of the most elegant in the tasting.
Château de Pierreux Brouilly 2003 $19
Deep, rich berries and a touch of wood on the nose. Very ripe and intense fruit. Finish drops off just a bit.
Chablis
Olivier Leflaive “Les Deux Rives” 2002 $19
Big fruity nose—licorice, tropical fruit, herbs. Crisp, almost delicate fruit flavors. Great acidity and a clean, mineral finish.
Verget “Terroirs de Fleys” 2002 $22
Aromas of hay and apples. Crisp, with a beam of sweet fruit running through it. Clean, mouthwatering finish.
Joseph Drouhin 2003 $23
Fruit, flowers, and pineapple sorbet on the nose. Lush, rich, very ripe. Big and juicy, almost over-the-top, but the acidity keeps it together.
Domaine Boudin Premier Cru “Fourchaume” 2002 $30
Bright citrus aromas. Rich, but elegant despite the hint of pineapple sweetness. Mouthwatering acidity. Gorgeous.
Pinterest
