A heavenly array of mountain cheeses and cured meats like lardo (thinly sliced herb-marinated lard) and mocetta (prosciutto made from chamois or ibex) form the final, the Alpine, facet of Turin cuisine. You can find them all over the city, in the farmers market at the Porto Palazzo and at restaurants like Trattoria della Posta, at the base of the Superga hill. This small, unpretentious place specializes in cheeses and serves a memorable platter of slices that range from Toma to Castelmagno.
Suddenly another year has passed and it is again carnival season. Although it seems that life here moves as slowly as an afternoon visit to one’s great-aunt, the stately pace carries with it sudden flashes of recognition of the crucial landmarks of life—birthdays, christenings, marriages, funerals, departures, arrivals—all celebrated with food. It is this timeless atmosphere of tribe and tradition that accounts for Turin’s peculiar hold over its residents. My husband once said: “There is a kind of mal du Turin [nostalgia for Turin] that leads people who have once lived here always to long for it, always to return.” Hearing this, I realized that it was my exact feeling. I have spent a great deal of time on adventures around the world and returning to my own beloved America, but when I come back to my adopted city in Piedmont I have an ineffable feeling of comfort and attachment. Turin, for all of its exasperating conservatism, is also memorable and nourishing at the most essential level. Just like all those family Sunday dinners.
The Details
Staying There
Turin Palace Hotel In a city not known for its great hotels, this four-star, despite its slightly faded beauty, is charming (Via Sacchi 8; 011-39-011-562-5511; from $169). Villa Sassi Live like the aristocrats who inhabited this pink 17th-century palace, outside of the city center (Strada al Trafano del Pino 47; 011-39-011-898-0556; from $293).
Eating There
Andrea Hotel Ristorante The all-asparagus menu is a rite of late spring and early summer (Via Torino 48, Santena; 011-949-2783). Ristorante del Cambio 1757 You’ll find traditional Piedmont fare with a French accent at this historic jewel where the Count of Cavour was a regular (Piazza Carignano 2; 011-543-760). Porto di Savona A classic trattoria for bollito misto or fritto misto, where almost everything from vegetables to macaroons is fried (Piazza Vittorio Veneto 2; 011-817-3500). La Prima Moreno Chef Moreno Grossi’s seafood bagna cauda is a thing of beauty, and his restaurant is one of the city’s finest (Corso Unione Sovietica 244; 011-317-9657). Ristorante Da Michele Custom-made pizza (Piazza Vittorio Veneto 4; 011-888-836). Trattoria della Posta A nirvana for cheese lovers—practically every dish here revolves around it (Strada Mongreno 16; 898-0193).
Being There
Chocolatiers and Pastry Shops
Confetteria Avvignano Piazza Carlo Felice 50 (011-541-992). Pasticceria Gerla Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 88 (011-545-422). Pasticceria Ghigo Via Po 52/b (011-887-017). Pasticceria e Confetteria Peyrano Pfatisch Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 76 (011-538-765).
Cheese shops
La Baita del Formaggio Via Lagrange 36 (011-562-3224). Borgiattino Formaggi Via Accademia Albertina 38 (011-839-4686).
Cafés
Caffè al Bicerin Piazza della Consolata 5 (011-436-9325). Caffè Baratti & Milano Piazza Castello 29 (011-440-7138). Caffè Mulassano Piazza Castello 15 (011-547-990). Caffè San Carlo Piazza San Carlo 156 (011-561-7748).
Wine Bars
Antica Enoteca del Borgo Via Monferrato 4 (011-819-0461). Casa del Barolo Via Andrea Doria 7 (011-532-038). Il Refettorio Via dei Mille 23/d (011-887-422).
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