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Three months ago, the connection came full circle. Rovera flew to Berkeley and spent seven days with Waters and the Chez Panisse staff, observing them in the kitchen and joining them on field trips to the Ferry Plaza Farmers’ Market. During a long dinner one night at Waters’s home, the 49-year-old Italian rallied more people around her cause.
“I used to think I was a radical,” Waters told a friend the following day. “Then I met Elena. All of a sudden I felt like I was in the middle of the road, and I didn’t like it at all. She’s a purist, and she’s doing God’s work. We sure could use a lot more like her.”
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