But for me, in the year 2003, it is one of the most moving, most interesting of city highways, and that is perhaps because after so many years of harsh experiment the people of this city have reconciled themselves to synthesis. The two Peters are not, in the end, in conflict. The cruel and the courtly coexist here, and the children, at least, recognize no contradiction. If they scamper, slither, and skateboard around the Bronze Horseman, they are just as much at home with the dour despot on his chair in the fortress. Comfortably perched on his metal lap, they pose for their parents’ cameras and play affectionately with the old monster’s bony and murderous fingers.
Where It’s Happening in St. Petersburg
Where
to Stay
Grand Hotel Europe (Mikhailovskaya Ulitsa 1/7; 011-7-812-329-6000; from $350) Truly grand, with some of the largest bathrooms you will ever bathe in and the splendid Europa restaurant.
The centrally located Hotel Astoria (Bolshaya Morskaya Ulitsa 39; 011-7-812-313-5757; from $230) houses the elegant Davidov’s Restaurant.
Hotel Moskva (Alexander Nevsky Ploshshad 2; 011-7-812-274-3001; from $110) A Soviet-era monolith, the Moskva has been upgraded to a comfortable midrange hotel. Its Salt and Pepper restaurant serves delicious borscht.
A less pricey option is the 45-room Hotel Matisov Domik (Naberezhnaya Pryazhka Reza 3/1; 011-7-812-318-5445; from $80).
Where to Eat
Restaurants close to the famous Mariinsky Theater, home of the Kirov opera and ballet companies, include Dvorianskoye Gnezdo (Dekabristov Ulitsa 21; 812-312-3205), with excellent pre- and posttheater dining; Nikolay (Bolshaya Morskaya Ulitsa 52; 812-311-1402) and the Literary Cafe (Nevsky Prospekt 18; 812-312-6057), both serving classic Russian dishes (though be aware that the atmosphere is better than the food); and the small 1913 (Voznesensky Prospect 13; 812-315-5148).
St. Petersburg is celebrating its tercentennial all this year. For more information, visit russia-travel.com or call 877-221-7120.
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