In trying to sketch out a future for the dairy, the family faces constant dilemmas. Although many competitors, such as Horizon, are successfully trumpeting their “organic” milk, the Osofskys have so far resisted the expensive paperwork and special feed required for federal organic certification. Carolyn Lasar, a Greenmarket inspector who made a surprise visit to Ronnybrook on a day I was there, said, “Ronny’s a great farmer, the cows are very healthy, and the quality of the milk is excellent. I don’t know that being certified as organic offers them anything other than a label.” Ronny says he thinks it might nonetheless be worth trying; Rick is markedly unenthused.
Ronnybrook is very much a work in progress: These dairy farmers are constantly improvising and searching for new products and new customers. Milk sales typically peak in November and December and slump in the winter, but try telling the cows to stop producing. What to do? On a recent Wednesday, Peter Osofsky, a University of Michigan grad, was presiding over his thrice-a-week stand at Union Square when a regular customer commented, “I’ve never seen this cheese with dill before.” Peter, a wiry man with a shy grin, explained, “We had extra milk this week. It’s an experiment.”
On a happy note, some recent experiments have been quite successful. Last spring, a new buttermilk drink was introduced and has been a huge hit. More importantly, Ronnybrook land ed a contract to produce yogurt and yogurt drinks for Pret A Manger, a British sandwich shop chain that has 14 locations in Manhattan (and is aiming for 40 by 2004). In June 2002, Ronnybrook began selling 1,000 pounds of yogurt and 315 gallons of milk a week to Pret A Manger. “Our mission is natural products, no preservatives; and Ronnybrook’s attitude is the same as ours,” enthuses Monica Gelinas of Pret A Manger. “And they’re a bunch of fun guys.” The guys (and gals) are hoping that if these products prove popular, the Pret A Manger orders—along with a new distribution agreement with Gourmet Guru, in the Bronx, and one with Northeast Cooperatives, to supply natural foods stores in New England—will se cure the farm’s future. Rick optimistically says, “We’re finally at the point where things are breaking our way.” The Osofskys even felt secure enough last summer to invest $29,000 in a freezer, to avoid a repeat of the meltdown catastrophe.
Family businesses often falter because the next generation loses interest, but the Osofsky brothers have very clearly passed on their passion for the farm to their children. “I love it here,” says Kate Osofsky. “None of us are doing this for the money. I’ll just be happy if we can pay our bills and retain a little bit.” Her brother Peter talks about feeling a loyal, family obligation to keep the place going: “This is hard work, and there’s never a break, but it’s also an opportunity for us.” Cousin Daniel, who often passes out from exhaustion by 9 p.m., is equally addicted to farm life. “I love the quiet mornings milking the cows, I like driving the John Deere. I think I’ll eventually leave to go to college, but I’ll come back. This is home.”
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