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Best Mexican food: Dos Amigos wins hands down. There's no phone, but anyone in Lajitas can tell you how to get there.
BEING THERE
Best paid tour: A one-day, 20-mile guided float trip from Big Bend River Tours costs $125 a head, with lunch and a breathtaking ride through Santa Elena Canyon. (915-424-3302)Best free tour : Drive into the park after dark to watch the fauna of the region come to life. Javelinas, foxes, and coyotes are easier to spot by moonlight than they are during the day.
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