Standing on the spacious front porch, we chatted with Judge Geeker. He lamented that the places in the South still serving meals the old boardinghouse way have dwindled to a handful. We asked him what, in his opinion, makes the food at this one so outstanding. “I credit Cora, Verdell, Nellie, and the others,” he replied. “Their experience adds up to centuries. You don’t learn to fry chicken the way Cora does it without a lot of patience. Patience, wisdom, and respect for tradition are things that do not get conveyed in a recipe or business plan. They reside in a cook’s hands, in her heart and soul.”
Hopkins House
900 North Spring Street, (850) 438-3979
Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Tuesday through Friday; breakfast and lunch only Saturday and Sunday. Breakfast: $3.50; lunch and dinner: $6.95.
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