What to See
The exceptional little Museum Mayer Van den Bergh, Lange Gasthuisstraat 19, tel. 232 42 37, displays the magnificent art collection of Fritz Mayer Van den Bergh, a wealthy 19th-century aesthete and collector, and includes superb Flemish still lifes and two wonderful Bruegels. The most important tribute to 16th-century printing is at the Museum Plantin-Moretus, Vrijdagmarkt 22, tel. 221 14 50, which occupies the stunning brick mansion just off the Groenplaats, where Christophe Plantin, one of Europe’s most important early printers, lived and worked. In addition to the actual printing works, which are fascinating, there’s an impressive collection of rare books, including one of the 13 surviving copies of the Gutenberg Bible. The Museum of Contemporary Art Antwerp, muhka, Leuvenstraat, tel. 238 59 60, was built from Art Deco grain silos and is a spectacular all-white space with soaring volumes and has regularly changing exhibitions. The photography museum, Provinciaal Museum voor Photographie, Waalse Kaai 47, tel. 242 93 00, has one of the most extensive permanent collections in the world, including works by Brassaï, Doisneau, Atget, Man Ray, Cartier-Bresson, and Capa. What would Antwerp be without the Provinciaal Diamantmuseum, Lange Herentalsestraat 31–33, tel. 202 48 90, where the entire story of diamonds—from their mining through cutting and grading and on to trading—is presented. The Flandria port tour, Steenplein, tel. 231 31 00, gives fans of industrial architecture a fascinating glimpse, on a 90-minute cruise, of the working port.
Where to Buy
For designer gear: Ann Demeulemeester, Leopold de Waelplaats/Verlatstraat, tel. 216 01 33, carries minimalist men’s and women’s wear; Walter, St. Antoniusstraat 12, tel. 213 26 44, is where to find hip, young sportswear; Het Modepaleis, Nationalestraat 16, tel. 233 94 37, is the flagship boutique of Dries Van Noten; Louis, Lombaardenstraat 4, tel. 232 87 22, carries the signature collection of Martin Margiella, now head designer for Hermès, and new talent like Veronique Branquinho, Jurgi Persoons, and Raf Simons.
For art, antiques, and chocolate: Gallery Ronny Van de Velde, Ijzerenpoortkaai 3, tel. 216 30 47, has a soaring three-story space in the Zuid, as well as the most interesting shows of painting and photography. Axel Vervoordt, Kasteel van’s Gravenwezel, St. Jobsteenweg, S’ Gravenwezel, tel. 658 14 70, is the most famous antiques dealer in town (by appointment only). Bill Blass and Ralph Lauren are among the clients who visit his spectacular 13th-century castle, just outside of town, which is filled with English and Belgian antiques, most of which are for sale. He has just opened another spectacular gallery space in an old distillery near the castle. Del Rey, Appelmansstraat 5–9, tel. 233 29 37, Antwerp’s best chocolatier, produces more than 80 different types of filled-chocolate pralines, and the tearoom is a fine spot to sample these remarkable pastries.
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