2000s Archive

Hungry For Adventure

continued (page 4 of 4)

To get to the best mukuane, a regional cousin of matapa, take a short taxi ride to O Coquiero, owned by Carmina Graça.

Maputo, like other major African cities, is not altogether safe. Refugees, left homeless by the war (or driven from their villages by minefields), crowd into the city. When walking here, avoid the streets at night unless traveling by taxi or private transportation. In daytime, wear little or no jewelry and carry nothing more than you can afford to lose. Finally, act like you know where you’re going even if you don’t.

Well outside the city, however, crime against tourists is virtually unheard-of and Mozambicans are eager to welcome visitors. The country has the most pristine beaches on the east coast of Africa. Visitors could walk for days without seeing anyone other than the random fisherman. A number of little resorts have cropped up along the coast in the south, among them Zongoene Lodge, just north of Maputo at the mouth of the Limpopo River.

The Details

To telephone Mozambique from the United States, first dial 011 258 1.

Language:

The official language of Mozambique is Portuguese, which is spoken in the larger towns by older people and the very young (teenagers and young adults, who had their education interrupted by the war, speak local dialects).

When to go:

The best time to visit is during the dry season, from April to September.

Visas:

Required for U.S. citizens.

Money matters:

Mozambique’s currency is the meticais, valued at 13,000 per one U.S. dollar.

Subscribe to Gourmet