1950s Archive

Primer for Gourmets

FIRST LESSONS IN LOBSTER COOKERY

continued (page 5 of 5)

Make a mirepoix bordelaise as follows: In 1 tablespoon melted butter sauté 1 carrot and 1 small onion, both finely chopped, until they are lightly browned. Season the vegetables with a pinch of thyme, a bay leaf, and a sprig of parsley. Add to the mirepoix the sautéed lobster pieces and add 1 tablespoon butter, 2 shallots or 1 small onion, Chopped, and ½ cup dry white wine, and sprinkle with ¼ cup brandy. Ignite the liqueur, and when the flame dies down, add ½ cup tomato purée, ½ cup fish stock or white wine, 1 clove of garlic, crushed, and 3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped. Cover the pan tightly and cook the lobster mixture 20 minutes. Remove the lobster pieces and take the meat from the shells. Strain the sauce. Cream the reserved tomalleys with 2 tablespoons butter and 1 teaspoon flour, and add ½ clove of garlic, crushed, and finely chopped chervil and tarragon to taste. Add the tomlley mixture to the sauce and reheat it, but do not allow it to boil. Add the lobster meat, correct the seasoning with salt, and cook for 2 minutes longer, or until the meat is heated through. Serve the lobster à l'américaine with boiled rice.

Fumet de Poisson (Fisb Stock)

In a buttered saucepan put 1 pound chopped raw fish bones and trimmings with 1 onion, thinly sliced, 4 sprigs of parsley and 6 peppercorns. Cover the pan and simmer the vegetables for 15 minutes. Add 3 cups water and 3 cups dry white wine, season with a pinch of salt, and simmer the mixture gently for 30 minutes. Strain the stock before using it. This will make approximately 1 quart.

Cold Lobster Soufflé

Remove and crack the claws of 2 lobsters, weighing 1 ¾ to 2 pounds each. Cut the tail sections from the bodies and cut the tails crosswise into 3 slices Split the body sections lengthwise and discard the intestinal veins and stomach sacs. Salt the lobster meat and the shells and sauté the pieces in ¼ cup hot olive oil for 6 minutes, or until the shells turn red, Remove the meat from the tails and claws and reserve it.

Remove the remaining lobster meal from the shells and pound it very fine, or put it through the finestade of the food chopper. Add 1 cop bechamel sauce (January, 1958), 3 tablespoons sweet butter, and I cup liquid aspic (August, 1957). Force the mixture through a fine sieve into a saucepan, place the pan in a bowl filled with crushed ice, and end the mixture well. Fold in 1 cup cream, whipped stiff. Cut off a few thin slices of the tail meat and reserve them. Dice finely the remaining tail meat, and fold the dice into the lobster-and-cream mixture.

Line a soufflé mold with heavy wax paper that protrudes about ¾ inch above the top of the mold, and pour the mixture to the level of the top of the paper. Chill the soufflé in the refrigerator for 2 hours, or until it is set. Run a thin knife between the paper and the soufflé, and carefully lift away the paper. Garnish the top of the soufflé with the reserved claw meat and slices of tail meat, coat them lightly with clear aspic, and return the soufflé to the refrigerator until the aspic is set.

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