Next in command was Alfred, the Speisenkellner. He did not enjoy Herr Baron's confidence; on the contrary, he confided in the Baron. Alfred contemplated making a proposal, and Herr Baron amused himself while his dinner was being served with a little experienced advice on courting. Next to the Baron's heart after Herr Ober came the Kellermeister—the wine steward—resplendent in his apron and chain. Here again, no names were known, but any two men of the world who had in common the love of wine could become warm friends. Last of all was the Piccolo, the little Piccolo in his tiny handeddown full-dress suit, not tall enough to hold Herr Baron's coat for him, but quick to bring water or a light for his cigarette, quick to catch the coin that was always tossed to him and to salute his patron's Guten Abend. In addition to Herr Baron's close summer friends, there was an enigmatic and beautiful man in a fez and shalwar (Oriental trousers) who brewed thick, sweet Turkish coffee and smiled a warm, white-toothed smile. Hen baton did not speak Turkish and Timur spoke no German, but, as the summer wore on, even these two began to feel congenial.
The moment Herr Baron arrived. Herr Ober gave him a bulletin from the kitchen. The veal was white . . . like a dream. Would Herr Baron consider it with mushrooms? Just so . . . let's see . . . Herr Baron wasn't going to spoil all the fun by capitulating so soon. Perhaps . . . but maybe today required something just a little lighter. Herr Baron had thought about cold Rhine salmon and hot Palacsinta all afternoon, but that didn't mean he would come right out and ask for it. They had to work around to it slowly, in mouth-watering steps. No final decisions could be made until the dessert had been selected. Contrary to the system in all other countries, most Austrians consider dessert the most important course and plan the rest of the dinner around it. If a heavy dessert tempted Herr Baron, he and Herr Ober might have to revise their plans completely. When the menu was settled, the wine steward came quietly to the table with his embossed leather-bound book, they opened the magic volume together, and Herr Baron told the Kellermeister what he was going to have for dinner. The wine steward always had something that would be perfect with the menu. His Berncasteler was at the peak or his Tokay was. . . . Only a discreet gesture could show how absolutely superb it was. Herr Baron had to call back the Herr Ober and revise his plans slightly. If the Tokay was really as perfect as the wine steward claimed, he would change his dessert to a crème and his salad to cress.
When the food was served, Herr Ober went through all his pates. He boned fish and birds with a stroke—he carved to perfection. He finally presented the garnished plate, tensely watched Herr Baron through the first taste, and after a reassuring nod or smile from the Baron, he retired. The wine steward, who had been chilling the wine or allowing it to breathe, defending on its character, drew the cork deftly, smelled it, rolled his eyes to heaven, poured off the first thimbleful, and let the wine run slowly into Herr Baron's glass. He, too, stayed to see the first swallow go down. Herr Baron always took the glass from his lips and raised it to the wine steward, a silent prosit, a tribute to a perfect bottle of wine. Later in the evening. Herr Ober and the wine steward enjoyed a similar dinner, with which they finished the remains of Herr Baron's bottle.
Herr Baron walked home to his white-draped apartment, enjoying the memory of the dinner he had eaten and of the dinners he had planned and discussed with his friend the Herr Ober, but had not eaten. He wondered contentedly whether the duck would have been better than the poularde or the peaches better than the pears.
Wiener Rostbraten mit Zweibel (Rib Steak with Onions)
The cut of beef used for the Wiener Rostbraten is a slice of the standing rib roast that is also called a rib steak, The slice is cut ½ inch thick and must be trimmed of all fat. Pound the steak well, season it with salt and pepper to taste, and dust it very lightly with flour. Heat a heavy skillet over a hot fire and add 2 tablespoons butter. Add the Rostbraten at once and sauté it on one side for about 1 minute. Add ¾ cup very thin onion rings and another 2 tablespoons butter and continue to cook the steak until it is brown, about 3 minutes. Turn the steak and cook it only long enough on the other side to seal in the juices. Invert the steak on a very hot plate, pour the onions and butter over it, and serve it at once. Rostbraten is sometimes served with a dusting of fried chopped bacon and chopped parsley over the onions. Makes 1 serving.
Pinterest
