1950s Archive

Viennese Memoir

The Flight Out

continued (page 3 of 5)

Cold Filet Durnstein

Sift 3 ½ cups flour with 1 ½ teaspoons salt and cut in 1 ½ cups chilled butter. When the butter and flour are evenly mixed, sprinkle the particles with 6 tablespoons ice water and gather the dough rapidly into a smooth ball. Chill the dough overnight.

Sauté 1 pound chicken livers in 2 to 3 tablespoons butter until they are tender, Mash the livers with a fork and set them aside to cool. In the butter remaining in the pan saute ½ pound mushrooms, minced, until they are soft and set them aside to cool. In the same pan sauté L onion, minced, until it is transparent, and let it cool. Mix livers, mushrooms, and onions together with ¼ pound ground ban and 2 ½ ounces liver paste. Add salt and pepper and chill the liver mixture.

Dust a thick beef filet, weighing 4 ½ to 5 pounds, with dry mustard and tie larding pork or bacon over it. Lay it in a roasting pan on slices of larding pork or bacon and roast it for 30 minutes in a hoc oven (400° F.). Remove the bacon or pork tied to the filet, cool the meat, and then chill it. Spread the top and the sides of the chilled filet with the cold chicken liver mixture and chill it again.

Roll the dough into a rectangle large enough to enclose the filet, with enough extra to make 8 or 9 heart shapes. Cut the hearts out of the edges of the dough with a cookie cutter and trim the rectangle. Lay the filet on the rectangle of dough and carefully wrap it. Have the seam on the bottom and the two ends securely turned in. Transfer the wrapped filet to an oven-proof serving platter. Paint one side of the heart cutouts with egg white and fix them securely on the dough for decoration. Prick the top and the sides of the dough with a fork and paint it with an egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water. Bake the filet it a moderately hot oven (375° F.) for 30 minutes. If the crust is still too pale, increase the heat and bake for a few minutes more, until the pastry is golden. Cool the filet very slowly and then chill it, leaving it on the platter. Just before serving, remove any fat or liquid from the platter and surround the filet with horseradish cream rosettes, water cress, and spiced sweet cherries. Serves 8.

You may hake the filer on a small baking sheet, but you must transfer sheet and all to the serving platter. The crust will break otherwise.

Horseradish Cream Rosettes

Grate enough fresh horseradish root to make ½ cup, tightly packed, cover the grated horseradish, and chill it. Whip 1 cup heavy cream almost stiff, add 1 teaspoon sugar and ½ teaspoon salt, and continue to whip until the cream is very stiff. Carefully fold in ¼ cup orange juice and 2 tablespoons granted orange zest. Fold in the grated horseradish, correct the seasoning, and turn the horseradish cream into a mold rinsed in cold water or pipe it with a pastry tube onto wax paper in large rosettes. Chill the cream for at least 2 hours in the coldest part of the refrigerator or in the freezer, Dust the cream with chopped parsley and serve it with filet Durnstein.

Bristol Ente (Cold Duck Bristol)

Truss and salt 3 ducks and place them on the rack of a very large roasting pan. Prick the skin with a fork and roast the birds in a moderate oven (350° F.) for about 2 hours, or until they are tender. Set the ducks aside to cool, reserving the juices in the roasting pan. Remove the breasts from the 3 cooled birds, using a sharp knife, and set aside the 6 breasts. Cut the remaining meat and skin from one of the ducks and discard the carcass.

Sauté 2 tablespoons chopped onion in 1 tablespoon butter until it is transparent, remove it from the pan, and drain it well. Add 1 ½ tablespoons butter to the pan and sauté 1 pound mushrooms, coarsely chopped, until they are soft. Drain the sautéed mushrooms. Add to the pan 2 pounds chicken livers and the 3 duck livers and sauté them in the butter until they are tender, adding more butter if necessary. Drain the livers. Squeeze 2 oranges, reserving the juice. Scrape the white pulp from the inside of the orange rinds. Combine the duck meat cut from the carcass, the skin from the 6 breasts, the chicken and duck livers, the mushrooms and onions, 2 ½ ounces goose liver pâté, the 2 orange rinds, and 2 tablespoons chopped parsley. Put the mixture through the finest blade of the food chopper twice, to obtain a smooth paste. Moisten the paste with equal parts of orange juice and Sherry. Adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and add more Sherry to taste. The paste should not be too dry. but it must be stiff enough to hold its shape. Peel and slice 3 truffles. Cut heart or diamond shapes out of the largest slices. Chop the smaller slices and scraps and add them to the paste.

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