There were Utile shops that came to life at eleven each morning and disappeared behind their metal shutters in the afternoon. Patrons came to the shop not only for the quality of its Sherry and the imagination shown in its open sandwiches, but also for the discretion with which the owner imparted or withheld the news of the day. He had to know that Frau Gräfin did not want to hear that her rival had just dropped in looking absolutely ravishing in a new creation—that Frau Gräfin really wanted to hear about her own enchanting appearance in her boa, and that her rival was showing signs of age. She wanted to hear that Herr Kammersänger had been asking for her not ten minutes ago and that Excellenz was away on the Riviera. No one entered a shop without a greeting and no one left without being bowed out. The shopkeeper always said “Bitte beebren Sic Uns wieder” (please honor us again when he opened the door for a departing patron.
The Gabelfrübstük was usually eaten standing, often with gloves on. The ladies pushed their veils up over their noses and the gentlemen adjusted their monocles and clicked their heels. An actress from the Burgtheater accepted congratulations on her performance of the evening before while she revived with a Scbluck of Sherry and a little caviar profuterole. The Kammersängerin whispered over her tiny mousse in order to spare her voice for tomorrow's Isolde.
No one ate a great deal, two or three little sandwiches at most, a glass of Sherry—it was only a pause that Stimulated and warmed, a moment's meeting with a friend, a delightful bit of idle chatter. There was news of a rise or fall on the exchange and a glimpse of the latest fashions from Paris.
Gabelfrübstük could also be eaten at a regular food market, the sort of shop that, in Vienna, combines the features of a true delicatessen Läden and a grocery store. A large establishment with sawdust-covered floors and room to move about in, it provided space for rows of sausages hanging from the walls and a counter for the finest smoked meats and fish. There were imported fruits, too—blood oranges from Spain, figs from Italy, preserved peaches from California. Gabelfrübstück at such a shop meant a slice of the finest salami or Westphalian ham extended from behind the counter on a long knife—here it meant a tasting of a sliver of cheese from Switzerland or a herring from Norway.
On the Kohlmarkt such a shop served a sort of complimentary snack to its customers—no Sherry, and no charge for the little tastings. A large terrine of foie gras always stood ready, with a scoop, and saleswomen offered little trays of specialties. Even the dogs who accompanied their mistresses were offered little Gabelfrübstük of their own from behind the meat counter.
The carriage drivers who drank thick soups at the kiosks gave feed bags to their horses, and the pigeons picked oats from the cobbles.
No one lingered too long—after all, too much Gabelfrübstück might spoil their enjoyment of lunch, and that would be a disaster.
Gänseleber Igel (Goose Liver “Porcupines”)
Chill a can of pálé dc foie gras with truffles in the refrigerator. Brown ½ cup slivered almonds with about 2 teaspoons salted butter in a very slow oven 200° F.), shaking them frequently. Sprinkle them with ¼ teaspoon salt and drain them on absorbent paper. Remove both ends of the foie gras can and push out the pâté. Slice it ½ inch thick with a hot knife and stick the slices with the slivered almonds. Peel apples and slice them ½ inch thick. Use only the 4 or 5 center slices. Trim the slices into even rounds with a cookie cutter and cut out the core. Saute the apple slices gently in butter until they are golden and just tender. Apples differ in consistency and some cook much faster than others. Transfer the hot apple slices with a spatula to a hot serving platter and lay a slice of goose liver on each. Serve the “porcupines” at once, with dry Sherry.
Spargel Rotten (Asparagus Pastry Roll)
Sift 4 cups flour onto a pastry board, make a well in the center, and into it put 1 teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon sugar, 1 egg, and 1 ¼ cups softened butter. Stir the ingredients in the center and incorporate enough flour to make a dough that can be worked with the hands. Gradually add ½ cup ice water and continue to work the dough until it is smooth. Chill the dough in the refrigerator. Boil 1 large bunch of asparagus in salted water to cover for about 8 minutes, or until it is nearly tender. Do not overcook the asparagus, as it will be baked later. Drain and cool the asparagus completely. Cut off the asparagus stalks 3 or 4 inches from the tips, discarding the stalk bottoms.
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