Primer for Gourmets

Boiled Fisb Steaks

Arrange haddock, salmon, cod, or halibut steaks, cut about 1 inch thick, side by side in a large shallow saucepan. Add white wine court-bouillon (June, 1957) to cover well, bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pan, and simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the fish stand in the stock for a minute or two. With a broad spatula (or two, if the steaks are large) remove the fish to a serving dish, draining off all the liquid. Serve the steaks with cream sauce to which a little lemon juice has been added, caper cream sauce, or mustard sauce (all January, 1958).

Poaching

The essential difference between poaching and boiling is in the amount of liquid used. In boiling, the fish is completely immersed in the liquid, and in poaching it is barely covered with a mixture of water, white wine, or lemon juice, butter, and shallots or onion. These basic ingredients may be varied by the addition of carrots, mushrooms. tomatoes, celery, and seasonings, in endless combination. When the fish is cooked, the liquid is reduced and thick ened to make the sauce.

For successful poaching, choose a fine-grained, firm type of fish. Coarse-grained fish is apt to break apart when it is lifted from the pan. Smaller pieces of fish are easier to handle than larger pieces; if necessary, each filet may be cut into two or even three portions before cooking.

For poaching, use a large, very shallow pan. like a large skillet. The filets should be arranged side by side. A piece of wax paper, or buttered white paper, cut to fit the pan, is laid on the fish. A tiny hole in the paper permits the steam to escape and prevents the paper from jumping away from the fish. The pan is then covered and the steam cooks the top of the filets.

As in other fish cookery, it is important in poaching not to overcook the fish. The liquid in which the fish is placed to be poached should be cool; when fish is plunged into boiling liquid the seasonings in the liquid cannot penetrate the flesh. Small whole fish, weighing about 1/2 pound, should cook in 15 minutes or less; 12 to 15 minutes is enough for fish steaks of the usual 1-inch thickness. Flat filets rake even less time, 10 to 12 minutes. Large whole fish such as salmon take about 8 minutes to the pound; fish weighing under 1 pounds require about 10 minutes to the pound. Always count the cooking time from the moment the court-bouillon reaches the simmering point. The same time schedule applies in boiling. If the fish is to be served cold it should be allowed to cool in the cooking stock; this makes it more flavorful and also easier to handle.

Filets de Sole Bonne Femme (Pouched Pilots of Sole)

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large shallow pan and spread over it 2 shallots or 1 small onion, finely chopped, and 6 mushrooms, cleaned and thinly sliced. Season 6 filets of sole, or of other fish, with salt and pepper and arrange them side by side on the vegetables. Spread 6 more sliced mushrooms over the fish and sprinkle with a little parsley. Add ¾ cup dry white wine. Cover the fish with a piece of wax paper the size of the pan. Make a small hole in the center of the paper. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pan, and cook 10 to 12 minutes. Using a large broad spatula, remove the fish and the vegetables to a warm serving platter.

Make the sauce in either of the following ways: For a simple sauce, cook the liquid in the pan until it is reduced to about 1 cup and swirl in manié butter, made by creaming together 1 tablespoon butter with 1 teaspoon flour. Correct the seasoning with salt, remove the sauce immediately from the heat, and pour it over the fish. For a rich sauce, cook the liquid in the pan until it is reduced to about 1/2 cup and thicken it by stirring in 1/2 cup cream sauce (January, 1958) and 1 egg yolk beaten lightly with ¼ cup cream. Bring the sauce just to the boiling point but do not allow it to boil. Correct the seasoning with salt and pour the sauce over the fish.

To make filets de sole paysanne, substitute 2 carrots and 2 onions, both thinly sliced, for the shallots and mushrooms in filets lie sole bonne femme.