1950s Archive

Viennese Memoir

Part III—Quartet

continued (page 2 of 4)

Now all is settled—only the Russians are left. They agree to start the next Season with the new Prokofiev and some Shostakovich — that leaves the whole summer free to practice kulich and save for Kaviar.

The Meister goes home in mellow mind to test the timing. He will send in a sort of timetable for Frau Hofrätin's cook to use, so that she can begin to serve each dinner at just the right moment after the applause. The Strings meet to run over their parts and Frau Hofrätin sends out her invitations. Politeness demands punctuality and her guests arrive promptly. It would be uncultivated to keep musicians waiting and far too uncomfortable in the Vorzimmer to sit out the first number there.

Musik comes first — Kultur requires Musik on an empty stomach. The Quartet starts at six. There is great concentration; nods and little indications from the guests show that they know every note. The daughter of the house follows breathlessly in her Partitur. As the Musik continues, with little Pausen full of “ohs” and “ahs” and discreet applause, the interest of the guests and possibly even of the musicians seems to turn to thoughts of dinner, of which they may become slightly aware as a faint aroma drifts through the strains of the last number.

The musicians are lauded with a glass of Sherry, and then to dinner: the First Violin on Frau Hofrätin's right, the wife of the First Violin next to Herr Hofrat. The guests and musicians are uplifted by musical conversation and anecdotes, and by a dinner calculated to hold fast the First Violin, so that he will not be lured to Frau Sektionchef's Quartet next year.

There follow a group of recipes, international in flavor, any of which might compose part of the gastronomic repertoire on Quartet evenings.

Gulyàssuppe (Hungarian Goulash Soup)

In a kettle or Dutch oven, brown 1 onion, minced, in I tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon bacon fat. Stir in 2 teaspoons Hungarian paprika and add 3 pounds brisket of beef, cut in medium chunks, and ¼ pound calf's liver. Brown the meat on all sides and dust it with a little flour. Add 1 cup white wine and salt to taste. Cover the pan and cook the meat gently for about 1 hour. Remove the liver, mince it, and return it to the kettle with 1 green pepper, seeded and chopped. Gxk the gulyàssuppe for an hour or so longer, until the meat is tender. Boil 1 pound potatoes, peeled and quartered, in salted water to cover until they are barely tender. Add the potatoes to the gulyàs suppe with enough of the cooking water to make a medium-thick soup. Add more paprika and salt to taste and cook all together for a few minutes longer.

Serve meat and soup in soup plates and pass separately, as a garnish for the soup, Spätzle dressed with melted butter.

Spätzle

Mix together well 2 ¼ cups flour, 1 egg, beaten, 2/3 cup water, and ½ teaspoon salt. Use a little less water if the egg is large, to make a soft dough that will not flow and is stiff enough so that it will not run off a spoon. Scoop up a generous amount of the dough with a wooden spoon. With a knife cut off small slices of the dough and drop them directly from the spoon into a large kettle of boiling salted water. The Spätzle will rise to the surface when they arc cooked. Drain them well in a colander and transfer them to a deep heated serving dish. Four ¼ cup melted butter over them and, if desired, stir in ¼ cup warmed sour cream. Shake the Spätzle well and serve hot.

Paprikabübnchen {Squab Chickens with Paprika)

Wash, dry, and sprinkle with salt 6 plump squab chickens or Rock Cornish game hens. Render 6 slices bacon, diced, in a large skillet or casserole, add 1 onion, grated, and stir in 2 teaspoons sweet Hungarian paprika. Heat the fat to sizzling again and in it sauté the birds, turning them frequently, until the fat is absorbed and the birds arc lightly browned. Add ½ cup chicken stock, cover the pan, and simmer the birds for about 25 minutes. Turn them several times with two spoons, being careful not to pierce the skins. Add more hot chicken stock if necessary. Crush the birds‧ livers, add them to the sauce, cover the skillet, and steam all for 10 minutes longer. The birds should be cooked for 35 to 45 minutes in all. depending on their size. Stir in 5/4 cup sour cream—more, if more sauce is desired—and heat the sauce thoroughly. Adjust the seasoning with paprika and salt to taste. Serve at once with Spätzle dressed with butter and sour cream.

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