1950s Archive

Primer for Gourmets

FIRST LESSONS IN SAUCE-MAKING

continued (page 4 of 5)

Mushroom Cream Sauce

Sauce Peel ½ pound small mushrooms and sauté them in 2 tablespoons butter until they are lightly browned. Add I cup cream and cook over low heat for 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in ¼ cupvelouté or cream sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Sauce Suprême

Cook 2 cups chicken stock with 3 sliced mushrooms, or some mushroom steins and peelings, until the liquid is reduced to one third its original quantity. Add 1 cup velouté, bring the sauce to the boiling point, and cook it until it is reduced to about 1 cup. Gradually stir in 1 cup sweet cream, correct the seasoning with salt and a little cayenne pepper, and strain the sauce through a fine sieve.

Sauce Allemande

Combine 2 cups hot sauce suprême with 2 egg yolks lightly beaten with a little cream, and cook the sauce, stirring constantly, until it reaches the boiling point, but do not let it boil. Finish the sauce with 2 tablespoons heavy cream.

Sauce Blanche (White Sauce)

Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a saucepan, add I tablespoon Hour, and mix the roux off the heat. Stir in I cup boiling water, ½ teaspoon salt, and a little white pepper. Add 2 beaten egg yolks that have been mixed with a little of the hot sauce and cook the sauce, stirring constantly with a wire whip, until it reaches the boiling point, but do not let it boil. Remove the pan from the heat, add 1 teaspoon lemon juice, and swirl in 2 to 3 tablespoons butter.

Brown Sauce

Melt ½ cup fat (fresh unsalted beef, veal, or pork drippings; do not use chicken fat) in a heavy saucepan and cook in it 1 small carrot and 2 onions, coarsely chopped, until the onions begin to turn golden. Add ½ cup flour and cook the roux, stirring constantly, until the flour is hazelnut brown. Stir in 3 cups boiling beef stock and add 1 stalk of celery, 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 small bay leaf, 1 clove of garlic, and a pinch of thyme. Cook the sauce, Stirring frequently, until it thickens. Add 3 more cups stock and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally and skimming from time to time, for 1 to 1 ½ hours, or until the mixture is reduced to 3 cups. Add ¼ cup tomato sauce or ½ cup tomato purée. Cook the sauce for a few minutes longer and strain it through a fine sieve. Add 2 more cups stock and continue cooking the sauce slowly for about 1 hour, or until the sauce is reduced to 4 cups, skimming it from lime to time. Remove the pan from the fire and let the sauce cool, stirring it occasionally.

Store the sauce in a covered jar in the refrigerator. If it is not used within the week, heat the sauce, cool it, pour it into a fresh jar, and pour melted fat over the top to prevent it from drying. Store the sauce again in the refrigerator.

Tomato Sauce

To 3 tablespoons melted butter in a heavy saucepan add 1 small carrot and 1 small onion, both coarsely chopped, and cook them until the onion is soft but not brown. Add ¼ cup flour and cook the roux, stirring occasionally, until it starts to turn golden. Add 2 to 2 ½ cups canned tomatoes or an equal amount of chopped fresh tomatoes, 1 ½ cups beef stock or water, 2 cloves of garlic, crushed, a bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs of parsley, 2 stalks of celery, and 1 small bay leaf, and a pinch of thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, and pepper to taste. Bring the sauce to a boil and cook it until it thickens, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat and continue to cook over low heat, stirring occasionally and skimming when necessary, for 1 to 1 ½ hours, or until the sauce is reduced to about 2 cups. Discard the bouquet garni and strain the sauce through a fine sieve. Bring the sauce again to a boil and cook it for 4 or 5 minutes longer, stirring constantly.

Store the sauce in a jar in (he refrigerator. If it is not used within the week, hear the sauce, cool it, and pour it into a fresh jar. Pour a little Sherry on top to keep the sauce from drying and return the jar to the refrigerator.

Sauce Chasseur

Peel and slice thinly the caps of 1 pound mushrooms. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a saucepan, add the mushrooms with ½ teaspoon salt and pepper to taste, and saute them, shaking the pan frequently, until they are golden brown. Add 2 shallots, chopped, and ½ cup dry white wine and cook the sauce until the liquid is reduced to about half the original quantity. Add 1 cup brown sauce, 2 tablespoons tomato sauce, and ½ teaspoon each of parsley and tarragon, both chopped.

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