We Frenchmen are noted for our love of frogs’ legs. When I was a boy in France, catching frogs was a combination game and business, a sport from which some extra pocket money could be realized, Frogs are so stupid iliac they are very easy to catch; they will go for almost any bait and many different ways of catching them, seem to work equally well. One of our neighbors designed a gadget that consisted of a pole with a long sharp metal prong at the end to impale the bait and spear the frog. As soon as the frog took the bait a spring controlled by a wire that reached to the handle could be released, and—voilà— the frog was caught! Another easy way to catch frogs was to go out at night with a lantern, The light attracted the frogs to the water's edge where they could easily be pulled into a net. But this method was frowned on as being unsportsmanlike. Besides, farmers chased these nocturnal frog hunters from their property because along with the frogs they stole fish from the ponds and too often damaged the property to boot.
Fresh frogs’ legs are very perishable, so when you buy frogs’ legs you must order them in advance at most fish markets. But they can also be purchased frozen. The frozen ones must be prepared as soon as they are defrosted and the fresh ones should not be kept longer than overnight. A strong odor indicates that the frogs’ legs have been kept too long and must be discarded. Frogs vary in size; the medium size, which I prefer, ranges from eight to twelve legs to the pound. Larger legs are apt to be old and tough. The very small ones, ranging from eighteen to twenty to the pound, are usually very tender; but, of course, there’s much less to eat on the leg. The meat is extremely delicate and very delicious; it tastes something like the white meat of a small squab chicken. There is no way that I know of to tell whether frogs’ legs will be tender or not, although now that they arc raised in captivity, they are more apt to be uniform in tenderness as well as in size. But when you cook them, it is very easy to predict how tender they will be, because as soon as a tough and stringy leg is touched by the heat, it stiffens out straight in the pan. The tender legs remain relaxed and supple.
Frogs purchased in the market are already skinned; but if you catch them yourself, you must skin them and cut off the feet with a pair of kitchen scissors. Then you should soak them in cold water for about two hours, changing the water occasionally. This makes the flesh white and plump. Allow three pairs or more for each serving, depending on the size of the legs.
Dry the legs well on a towel if you plan to sauté them; otherwise they won’t brown and have the characteristic crusty surface. The Eat should be very hot when you put the legs in and they should cook at a high temperature. Allow seven or eight minutes for the small ones and ten to twelve for large legs, turning them as they cook so that they brown on all sides. All in all, a frog’s leg is just about as easy to cook as a piece of bacon.
Frogs’ Legs Meunière
Clean frogs’ legs, cut off the feet, and soak them in cold water to cover for 2 hours. Drain and dry them thoroughly. Dip them in milk, then in flour. Shake off the surplus flour, to prevent its scorching.
Cover the bottom of a frying pan well with clarified butter or oil. Heat the oil well and in it sauté the frogs’ legs on all sides to a golden brown. This takes 7 to 9 minutes, allowing the longer rime for the heavier legs. Transfer the legs to a serving dish and season them with salt, a little freshly ground pepper, and a few drops of lemon juice. Discard the oil in the pan and add ½ tablespoon butter for each serving. Cook the butter until it is nut brown, pour it over the frogs’ legs and sprinkle all with finely chopped parsley. Garnish with slices of lemon sprinkled with finely chopped parsley.
Frogs’ Legs Parmentier Sauté frogs’ legs as for frogs’ legs meunière. In another pan sauté raw potatoes cur in small dice until they are golden brown. Combine the potatoes with the cooked frogs’ legs and season with salt, a little freshly ground pepper, and a few drops lemon juice. Finish with brown butter.
Frogs’ Legs Provençale
Follow the recipe for frogs’ legs meunière, adding a little finely chopped garlic to the brown butter about a half minute before it is ready to pour over the frogs’ legs.
Or peel, seed, and chop 1 or 2 tomatoes and cook them quickly in a shallow pan until most of the moisture is cooked away, add a little finely chopped garlic, and pour this sauce over the frogs’ legs with the brown butter.
Frogs’ Legs Amandine.
Follow the recipe for frogs’ legs meunière, adding blanched, slivered almonds, lightly toasted in the oven, to the brown butter.
Frogs’ Legs Poulelte
Clean 2 pounds frogs’ legs, cut off the feet, and soak the legs in cold water to cover for 2 hours. Drain and dry them thoroughly.
Clean and slice ½ pound fresh mushrooms and put in a saucepan with 1 tablespoon chopped shallots or onion and 1 tablespoon butter. Add the frogs’ legs and ½ cup white wine. Bring the liquid to a boil and cook the legs for 10 to 12 minutes or until they are tender. Remove the frogs’ legs and mushrooms to a serving dish and reduce the liquid in the pan to not more than ½ cup. Add ½ cup cream, boil the sauce again, and cook it for 2 or 3 minutes. Thicken with manié butter made by creaming 1 tablespoon butter with 1 teaspoon flour, and cook, stirring constantly, for a few minutes. Season with salt and a little freshly ground pepper, and if desired a few drops of lemon juice. Pour the sauce over the frogs’ legs and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley.
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