1950s Archive

Classes in Classic Cuisine

Crêpes and Beignets

continued (page 2 of 3)

To return now to the subject of crêpes: crêpes are not pancakes in the American manner. They are very thin and delicate, not cake like and fluffy; they use only egg as leavening. The crêpe batter is rather like a custard to which a very little flour has been added; when you eat the crêpe, you are aware of this custardy quality. And of course, while American pancakes are generally considered a breakfast dish, the French rarely if ever eat crêpes for breakfast; they serve them for dessert, or as an entree at luncheon or supper.

There are as many different recipes for crêpes as there are French cookbooks and French chefs, and I can guarantee that almost every one of them will be different, and will call for different proportions of flour, butter, and brandy. I give you several formulas here: for the delicate dessert crêpe, for the country-style crepe, which is easier for the beginner to handle, for crêpes that are to be filled with creamed spinach or the like for luncheon, and for crêpes to be used as hors-d'oeuvre or as a soup garnish. These last contain no brandy and little or no sugar.

Crêpes

Sift together 1 cup flour, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Add gradually 2 eggs and 2 egg yolks beaten together. Add 1 3/4 cups milk and stir all together to make a smooth batter. Add 2 tablespoons melted butter and 1 tablespoon rum or brandy. Strain the batter through a line sieve and let it stand for 2 hours before using.

Butter lightly a hot 5 or 5 1/2-inch skillet. Pour in a small amount of batter, enough to make a very thin layer, and quickly tilt the pan to let the batter run to the edges before it sets. It should set and become brown in about 2 minutes. Turn the crepe on the other side and cook it until it is golden brown. The more quickly the crepes cook, the more tender they will be. Fold them or roll them up. put them on a hot dish, and sprinkle them with powdered sugar.

For a mixture that is easier to handle use 1 1/2 cups milk instead of 1 3/4 cups. The crèpes will not be quite so thin and delicate.

Crêpes Ménagère (Country-Style Crêpes)

Sift together 1 cup flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Beat in gradually with a wire whip 3 beaten eggs. Add 1 1/4 cups milk and a little vanilla, rum, or brandy. Mix the batter until it is smooth, strain it through a fine sieve, and let it stand for 2 hours. Cook the crêpes on both sides, arrange them on a hot serving dish, and sprinkle them with powdered sugar, or serve them with maple syrup or honey, or spread them with jelly or marmalade and roll them up.

Crêpes Suzette

Cook crepes and keep them warm. Rub 4 lumps loaf sugar on the skin of an orange. Mash the lumps of sugar on a plate with 3 tablespoons sweet butter. Put in the blazer of a chafing dish 2 or 3 tablespoons butter, the juice of 1 orange, a few drops of lemon juice, and 1/2 cup Curaçao, Cointreau, Benedictine, or Grand Marnier. Bring the mixture to a boil, and stir in the butter and sugar mixture. Lay the crêpes in the sauce and spoon the sauce over them. Add 1 or 2 more tablespoons butter if desired. Fold the crepes in quarters, sprinkle them with 1/2 cup warm brandy, and ignite the spirit.

Crêpes Strasbourgeoise

Prepare crêpes and spread them with sweet butter creamed with a little powdered sugar and flavored with kirsch.Roll up the crêpes, arrange them on a heatproof serving dish, sprinkle them with a little sugar, and glaze them quickly under the broiler.

Crêpes aux Ananas (Crépes with Pineapple)

Cut pineapple into very thin slices and drain the slices on paper towels. If fresh pineapple is used, it should be sweetened to taste. Prepare a crêpe batter. Pour a very thin layer of the batter in a hot lightly buttered skillet and tilt the pan to let the batter run into a circle slightly larger than the pineapple slices. Brown each crêpe on the underside, lay a slice of fruit on it, and cover the fruit with another very thin layer of crêpe batter. Turn the crêpe and brown the other side. Arrange the crêpes on a hot serving dish and sprinkle them with powdered sugar.

Crêpes for Luncheon

Sift together 1 cup flour, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon sugar and add gradually 2 eggs and 2 egg yolks beaten together. Add 1 3/4 cups milk and stir to make a very smooth batter. Strain the batter through a fine sieve. Let it stand for 2 hours before cooking the crêpes.

Crêpes aux épinards (Crêpes with Spinach)

Make luncheon crêpes and spread them with creamed spinach. Roll the crêpes and serve them hot, with sauce Mornay (January, 1957), if desired.

Crêpes à la Reine (Crêpes with Chicken)

Simmer 2 cups chopped cooked chicken meat in 1 cup cream until the liquid is reduced to half its original quantity. Add 1/2 cup cream sauce, salt to taste, and a little white pepper.

Spread luncheon crêpes with this chicken hash mixture, roll them, and serve them hot, with sauce Mornay (January, 1957), if desired.

Crêpes with Shellfish

Make luncheon crêpes and spread them with finely diced lobster or shrimp or crab meat mixed with enough bechamel sauce to bind the fish. Flavor with a little dry Sherry. Roll the crêpes and serve them very hot.

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