Grado is an unsophisticated fishing port, filled with vacationers in search of clean sand and sunshine. The local municipality deserves a vote of thanks for closing off the center of the town to motor traffic; you strollisslully through its streets, secure in the knowledge that no baby Fiat can run you down, no sputtering Vespa can troe your benign calm. It is pleasant to sir in the brightly lighted main street after dinner and to gaze at the passing throng. It is not a worldly pageant—just family groups, sailors, naval officers, and assort' cd tourists.
There is a picturesque fishing port with a full complement of wooden vessels. On the prow of each are two local symbols, wood carvings which resee enormous snails. On the hot August day when we visited Grado, the seafaring men wen-not dedicated to piscatorial pursuits. Instead they sat bare-foot on the decks under russet awnings and played cards. Obviously, this is a nice, relaxing place. There arc two accepte hotels along the beach, the ASTORIA and the ESPLANADE. The former has a night club, a jittery jazz sextet, and ample parking space, all in season.
Leaving Grado the next morning we saw a bilingual sign which read: AU REVOIR-LET US SEE AGAIN. We intend to accept the invitation!
TRIESTE
Occupying a choice setting at the northern extremity of rhe Adriatic and serving as its principal port, Trieste has always been a prize coveted by neighboring countries. For centuries it was the port of Austria. But the Romans had it long before that, and have left the remains of an amphitheater as proof of their presence. Today the Italian colors fly from its gleaming flagpoles, following the agreement made with Jugoslavia in 1954. It is now a far more pleasant and relaxed place than it was as a free city under military supervision.
Many transatlantic vessels doc at at Trieste, so there is a chance that you may find yourself one day in this gusty, bustling city of a quarter million and more. It is well worth a visit, but don't forget to lake along a light coat. In this top pocket of the Adriatic, there is a high wind which sometimes sweeps through Trieste so vigorously that ropes have to be strung along the trees to help struggling pedestrians.
You will find that the most tranquil and beguiling spot in this teeming metropolis is on a tree-covered hilltop, crowned by an ancient castello. From this lofty eminence you have a superb view of the close-packed city and its busy harbor, without hearing all its clatter. Nearby is the basilica of San Giusto, built on the ruins of a Roman temple. Its rose window is lovely, and its door-way. flanked by Roman sarcophagi, most inviting. Nearby is a partially restored forum.
If this constitutes the touristic high spot of Trieste, we also have a glowing nominee for its gastronomic pinnacle. This is the restaurant called DA DANTE, a large, animated, ambitious estishment at 12 via Carducci. The menu which confronts the eager diner is awe-inspiring in length—more than twenty pasta preparations, fifteen Adriatic fish dishes, and over thirty meats. We had the good fortune to be guided through this maze of dishes by a qualified expert. He recommended two specialties that were so good that we promptly pass the tip on to you. Both delicacies were prepared at the tc by a gifted waiter-cook. The sour nose lasagne di Mamma kosa were thin extra-wide noodles mixed in a chafing dish in butter with bits of ham and cheese, and finally with thick cream. Filatto di bue vornoff was a fine filet of beef browned in butter, to which was added a mixture of mustard, lemon juice, a trickle of Worcester-shire sauce, then Sherry and finally brandy. The sauce wasended and the whole thing ignited in another spray of brandy. With a slice of marrow on top. and a loyal bottle of Terrano, it was a dish to remember.
Trieste has two good hotels, both accustomed to coping with Anglo-Saxon needs. They should be, after catering to British and American officers for years. The EXCELSIOR PALACE faces the harbor near the maritime station, while another familiar JOLLY HOTEL, a large and luxurious one this time, is near the railway station.
Here is a quintet of recipes from the northern Italian provinces, among them the hare, goulash, and gnoccbi specialtics already mentioned. They are adapted to your American kitchen, and should lend your menus pleasant variety.
Spezzatino di Manzo (Tyrolean Goulash)
In an iron pot brown I chopped onion in 2 teaspoons lard or bacon fat and 2 teaspoons olive oil. Add ½ teaspoon paprika and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Add 2 pounds beef cut into ¾-inch cubes, salt and pepper, 1 clove garlic, chopped, the rind of ½ lemon, chopped, a good pinch each of marjoram and aniseed, and 1 tespoon tomato paste. Cook, stirring, for several minutes, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon Hour, and cook until the sauce is browned. Add 1 ½ tups hot water or stock. Cover the pot and simmer the broth over low heat until the meat is tender, adding more liquid if necessary.
Gnoccbi di Pane alla Tirolese (Tyrolean Bread Dumplings)
In 1 generous tespoon of butter brown 1 medium onion, chopped. Add 1 tespoon parsley, finely minced. Remove the pan from the fire and stir in 3 cups diced bread and ½ cup finely minted baton. Add 1 egg and ½ cup milk beaten together, sprinkle with 1/3 tup flour and a pinch of salt, and mix well. Shape the mixture into bulls the size of plums and pouch the dumplings in simmering water for 20 to 25 minutes. Drain well and pour over them a little hot gravy.
Lepre alla Montanara (Hare Stew Mountain Style)
Make a marinade of 1 cup red wine, the peel of ½ lemon, chopped, 1 tablespoon raisins, 1 tespoon pine nuts, ¼ teaspoon cinnamon, 4 cloves, and 1 ½ teaspoons sugar. In this marinate for 'i or 5 hours the liver, lungs, and heart of a wild hare. Cut the hare into 6 pieces, dredge the pieces with Dour, and brown them on all sides in butter with I onion, chopped, and 2 teaspoons diced baton. Add the marinated innards, the unstrained marinade, and salt and pepper. Covet the kettle and simmer the stew gently until the meat is tender, adding a little hot water as necessary.
Pinterest
