1950s Archive

Classes in Classic Cuisine

Entrée Soufflés

continued (page 2 of 4)

The puree may be made in different ways. Moist foods, like tomatoes, may be cooked to make a paste. Spinach and similar vegetables should be forced through a sieve. Chicken and mushrooms are chopped very, very fine, and may be forced through a sieve for a smoother result. There is one exception to the rule that Soufflés are made with a puree. You cannot make a light and delicate Soufflé by mixing coarse particles of food into the Soufflé batter, but sometimes better flavor and a delightful contrast of texture results if the food is cut into small, thin slices, as the lobster is in the soufflé de bomard. Or the larger bits of food, combined with a thick sauce, may be poured first into the dish, and the soufflé batter poured over the mixture.

The egg yolks should be beaten just enough to mix them thoroughly. The egg whites should be stiff, but nor dry; stop whipping them when they form glistening, moist-looking peaks.

Entree Soufflés take more time to bake than sweet Soufflés, because the baiter is denser than that used for dessert soufflés. The top crust should tux form liefore the mixture has reached its maximum volume and a crust has formed on the bottom of the dish. That is why I bake the Soufflé on the bottom of the oven for the first eight or nine minutes, and then slip a rack under it or move the dish up to a rack for the balance of the cooking time, But you will want to experiment with your oven to discover its eccentricities, so that you can be certain of the rime and temperature requirements that apply.

Soufflé de Tomates (Tomato Soufflé)

Chop coarsely 5 or 6 large ripe tomatoes. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a saucepan, add the tomatoes, and cook them until all the liquid has cooked away and the mixture is quite thick. Strain the mixture and discard skin and seeds. Add 3 tablespoons canned tomato paste, 1 tablespoon sugar, and ½ teaspoon salt, and bring the mixture to a boil. Make a thick bechamel sauce as follows: Melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 3 tablespoons flour, and cook, stirring, until the roux starts to turn golden. Stir in I cup hot milk and cook the sauce for about 5 minutes, or until it is very thick, stirring it constantly with a whip. Combine this with the tomato mixture and 2 tablespoons Parmesan or dry Swiss cheese, Beat 5 egg yolks, add them to the tomato mixture, and heat all together just to the boiling point, stirring briskly. Do not allow the mixture to boil. Remove the pan from the heat and continue to stir for a few minutes longer. Beat 5 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly and carefully one-fourth of the beaten egg whiles and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Pour the batter into a buttered and floured Soufflé mold and run your forefinger to the depth of ½ inch around the inside of the mold to separate the batter from the dish. Bake the Soufflé in a moderate oven (350° P.) for 25 to 30 minutes.

soufflé au Fromage (Cheese Soufflé)

Melt 4 tablespoons sweet butter in a saucepan, stir in ½ cup flour, and cook the roux until it starts to turn golden. Add 2 cups hot milk, stirring well with a whip, return the sauce to the heat, and cook it, stirring constantly, for about 5 minutes, or until it is very thick. Add ½ teaspoon salt, a little pepper, and a little nutmeg, and remove the pan from the heat. Beat 5 egg yolks until light, combine them with the sauce, and heat the mixture just to the boiling point, stirring briskly. Do not allow it to boil. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in 1 cup grated Parmesan or dry Swiss cheese. Beat 5 or 6 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly carefully one-fourth of the beaten egg whites and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Pour the batter into 2 small molds, buttered and floured, and bake the Soufflés in a moderate oven (350° F.) for 25 to 30 minutes, or until they are pulled and lightly browned. If desired, very thin diamond-shaped slices of Swiss cheese can be arranged in a circle on the Soufflé. As the soufflé bakes, they will melt and form a decorative design in the crusty surface.

Petits Soufflés an Fromage (Small Cheese Soufflés)

Bring to a boil 1 cup milk, add 2 cups fresh white bread crumbs, and mix all Together well to make a thick panade. If necessary, add a few more crumbs. Beat in 5 egg yolks, one at a time. Add 1 tablespoon butter and 1 cup grated Parmesan or dry Swiss cheese. Beat 5 egg whites stiff but not dry. Fold into the mixture thoroughly and carefully about one-fourth of the egg whites and add the remaining egg whites, cutting them in lightly and completely by raising and folding the mixture over and over. Fill buttered individual molds twothirds full with the batter and sprinkle them with a little grated cheese. Set the molds in a pan of boiling water and bake the Soufflés in a moderately hot oven (375° F.) for 12 to 15 minutes, or until they are puffed and golden brown.

Soufflé de Howard Plaza-Athénée (Plaza-Atbénée Lobster Soufflé)

Remove the claws and tails from 3 lobsters, each weighing 1 ¾ to 2 pounds, and with a large heavy knife divide each of the body sections into three or four pieces. In a large saucepan make the following vegetable mirepoix: Melt 2 tablespoons butter, add 1 medium carrot cut in fine dice, 2 tablespoons finely chopped onion, and 1 tablespoon chopped chives. Cook the mirepoix over very low heat until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Add 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and remove the pan from the heat.

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