1950s Archive

Classes in Classic Cuisine

continued (page 5 of 7)

Sauce Vincent

Add 8 sorrel leaves to the greens listed in the recipe for green sauce.

Russian Dressing

Add 3 tablespoons chili sauce and 1 teaspoon each pimiento and chives, both finely chopped, to 1 cup mayonnaise. For salads.

Sauce Aïoli

Combine 2 or 3 cloves of garlic, pounded to a smooth paste, with 2 egg yolks. Add 7 to 8 tablespoons olive oil, drop by drop at first, increasing to a thin Stream as the sauce begins to thicken, beating constantly. When half the oil has been beaten in, add alternately with the remaining oil 1 scant teaspoon fresh lemon juice and a few drops of cold water. Season highly with salt and freshly ground black pepper and serve very cold. Sometimes ½ cup mashed potato, cold or lukewarm, is added to the sauce before the lemon juice. For poached fish or boiled beef.

Custards—a mixture of eggs, milk or cream, sugar and flavoring — may be made on top of a stove or in an oven, but the texture of a custard depends on the proportion of eggs to milk employed. the richness of the milk and the care with-which the custard is cooked. At least three eggs are needed to thicken one pint of milk. More eggs will enrich the custard, but generally only yolks are used for this purpose. Some chefs use only yolks, and their custards arc invariably rich and smooth.

The problem of curdling also enters the picture in the preparation of custards. But again, if the rules are followed this possibility is eliminated.

Soft custards must be cooked in the top of a double boiler or over low, controlled heat. A little of the scalded milk used to make the custard must always be poured into the egg and sugar mixture before the eggs are added to the hot milk. The mixture must be stirred constantly until it thickens, and it must be removed from the heat the minute it becomes thick. If these rules are not followed and the custard begins to curdle there is nothing to be done but start anew, because custards cannot be reconstituted. To stop the custard from cooking on retained heat, pour it as soon as it is done into a cold bowl. Stir it occasionally while it cools to prevent a skin from forming on the surface.

In making a baked custard, set the dish in a pan of water and keep the oven temperature low. Otherwise, the custard will separate and be watery. Overcooking will have the same bad effect. To determine when a baked custard is done, insert a small, pointed silver knife just to one side of its Center. When the custard is done, the knife will come out clean.

In fine cookery, the raw vanilla bean is preferred to vanilla extract for flavoring desserts. A piece of bean 1 to 2 inches long will flavor a pint of milk. Pieces of vanilla bean may be re-used several times if they are washed and dried well after each use. If vanilla extract is used, it should be added at the end of the cooking, because heat will destroy some of its flavor.

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