Usually the materials that give the flavor, the tomatoes, peas and so on, are added with the stock or water and cooked with it and the seasonings. But 1 have found that if some vegetables, spinach for instance, are cooked separately for a short time and added to the base just before it is strained, the finished soup has a much better flavor. Finally. there is the liaison, or binder, which seems to pull together the whole mixture and give it a texture that is indescribably smooth and rich. This is usually a mixture of egg yolks and cream.
The following four recipes are for these traditional basic crèmes.
Cream of Chicken Base
Either 2 quarts chicken stock with some added chicken bones or 2 quarts water with a small fowl may be used. In a large saucepan melt 4 tablespoons butter and add ½ cup flour (either wheat, rice or barley). Mix well and cook slowly until this roux starts to turn golden. Add gradually either 2 quarts hot chicken stock or 2 quarts hot water, mix well with a wire whip, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is smooth and thickened. Add chicken bones (or a small fowl if water was used) and, if available, add a veal knuckle parboiled in salted water and then drained. Add the white parts of A leeks (or 2 onions), 2 stalks of celery, and 2 teaspoons salt, and cook slowly for 2 hours. Skim well, remove bones (or Fowl), leeks, onions and celery. Strain the soup through a fine sieve, return it to the pan, and bring back to a boil. When the thickening is rice flour (or whole rice) this is called cream of rice;when barley flour is used it is called cream of barley.
Potage Saint-Germain
Cover 2 cups split peas with water and soak them for about 1 hour. Drain, discard the water, and put the peas in a large saucepan with 4 cups fresh water and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring the water to a boil, skim, and cook slowly, covered. Meanwhile, in another saucepan melt 1 tablespoon butler, add ½ cup finely chopped salt pork, and cook for a few minutes. Add 1 medium onion, chopped, and cook until the onion is soft and just starting to turn golden. Add 1 medium carrot and the green part of 2 leeks, both chopped, 1 cup chopped spinach or green lettuce, a small piece of bay leaf, and a pinch of thyme. Cook for a few minutes longer and then add the peas. Cook for about 1 hour, or until the peas are very soft. Rub the soup through a fine sieve and add 1 cup water or stock. Bring the soup back to a boil, correct the seasoning with salt, and add 1 teaspoon sugar and 1 or 2 tablespoons butter. For a richer soup, add ½ cup heavy cream. If fresh peas are available cook 1 cup (or use both pods and peas of very tiny ones) in water until very soft, rub through a sieve, and add the purée to the pea soup.
Posage Parmentier
Clean 4 leeks well, remove the coarse green tops and chop the white parts finely. (If leeks are not available, substitute 2 onions for the 4 leeks.) Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large sauce-pan, add the finely chopped leeks and 1 onion, also finely chopped, and cook slowly, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until the vegetables are soft but not browned. Meanwhile, peel and dice 4 large potatoes and add them to the leeks and onion with 4 cups water and I teaspoon salt. Bring the water to a boil and cook slowly for 30 to 35 minutes or until the potatoes are very soft. Rub the soup through a fine sieve and return it to the saucepan. Bring the soup back to the boil and add 3 cups hot milk and 1 tablespoon butter. Correct the seasoning with salt. Serve with diced croutons (sec page 28). For a richer soup, mix 2 egg yolks with 1 cup heavy cream and a little of the hot soup and stir the mixture into the hot soup. Bring almost to a boil, but do not let it boil, stirring occasionally.
Cream of Tomato Soup
Either 2 quarts chicken stock with some added chicken bones or 2 quarts water with a small fowl may be used. Melt 4 tablespoons butter in a large saucepan and add 2 medium carrots and 2 medium onions, both chopped Cook until they start to turn golden. Add ¾ cup flour (either wheat, rice or barley), mix well, and cook for a few minutes. Add gradually either 2 quarts hot chicken stock or 2 quarts hot water, mix well, and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is smooth and thickened. Add chicken bones (or a fowl if water was used) and, if available, a veal knuckle parboiled in boiling salted water and drained. Add 3 leeks, 2 stalks of celery, 6 large tomatoes, 4 cups Italian tomato puree, 1 clove of garlic, 8 while peppercorns. ½ tablespoon salt, and 1 tablespoon sugar. Cook slowly for 2 hours, skimming when needed. Remove the bones or and and puss the soup through a fine sieve. When ready to serve, add 1 cup cream and 1 tablespoon sweet butter. If the soup is too thick, add milk to give it the desired consistency.
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