I can't pass September by without also calling your attention to fall mushrooms, and that special French kind called cèpes which are now obtainable in this country in cans. In France they are a favorite accompaniment for lamb. which has reached its full maturity at this time of year and, if properly fed and fattened, is as tender as spring lamb and more flavorful.
This menu, as you can see, brings together a gourmet's treasure trove of early fall foods. It is the menu for a truly regal dinner, with an interesting variety of flavors and many rich sauces. For most people, I'd suggest small servings and no scarcity of crusty bread.
The first service of wine should come with the lobster and for it a good choice would be a Puligny-Montracher or a Meursault 1947. With the noisette d'aguneau serve a Pontet-Canet 1943, with the partridge a Gevrey-Chambertin 1947, and a good champagne with the dessert. With the coffee a fine cognac, of course, and also a selection of liqueurs.
Crème de Champignons or Crème Forestière (Cream of Mushroom Soup)
In a saucepan melt 4 tablespoons butter and stir in ½ cup flour. Cook slowly until the mixture turns golden. Add gradually 5 cups chicken stock and cook, stirring, until the sauce is smooth and thickened. Tie together the white part of 2 leeks and 2 stalks of celery (if leeks are unobtainable use 1 small onion) and add the vegetables to the sauce with ½ teaspoon salt and a few chicken bones or a veal knuckle, par-boiled for a few minutes and then washed in cold water. Simmer slowly for 1 hour.
In another pan melt 1 tablespoon butter and in it sauté 1 tablespoon finely chopped onion until golden. Add ½ pound of mushrooms, cleaned and finely chopped, and cook all together until most of the moisture is cooked away. Add the mushroom mixture to the soup and continue to cook for another hour. Skim if necessary. Remove bones, leeks, and celery, and rub the liquid through a fine sieve. Add ¾ cup cream and a little more stock or milk if the soup is too thick. Bring to a boil and correct the seasoning with salt. Mix 1 egg yolk with ¼ cup heavy cream and a little of the hot soup and stir it into the soup. Bring the soup almost to a boil, stirring constantly, and serve immediately.
Homard à la Française (Lobster Française)
Split lengthwise 3 live lobsters, each weighing 1 ¾ to 2 pounds (or 6 lobsters if they weigh less than a pound). Discard the sand sac at the back of head and the intestinal vein. Remove the claws. Season the lobsters with a little salt and pepper. Slice very thinly 3 medium carrots and 5 small onions, cover with water, and parboil 5 minutes. Drain. In a large shallow saucepan melt 3 tablespoons butter, spread the carrots and onion on it, and add 1 chopped shallot and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. Place the lobsters with the claws in the pan and add 1 cup each of dry while wine and fish stock. Bring the liquid to a boil, cover the pun, and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the lobsters are done. Remove the lobsters to a serving dish, remove the meat from the shells, discarding the inedible parts. and return the edible meat to the shells along with the vegetables from the pan. Remove the meat from the claws, arrange it near the heads of the lobsters and keep warm. Cook the liquid in the pan until it is reduced to one-third and add 1 ½ cups cream sauce. Correct the seasoning with salt and finish with 2 tablespoons butter. When ready to serve, add 3 tablespoons cognac to the sauce, bring to a boil, and pour the sauce over the hot lobsters Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon each of chopped parsley and chives.
Cream Sauce far Lobster Francaise
In a saucepan melt 3 to 4 tablespoons butter, add 3 tablespoons flour, and mix well. Cook the roux for a few minutes and add gradually 2 cups boiling milk, stirring constantly with a whip. Add ½ teaspoon salt and cook the sauce for 45 minutes over very low heat. Add ½ cup cream, bring back to a boil, and strain through a fine sieve.
Noisette d'Agneau Mont pewter (Kernel of Lamb Moutpensier)
Carefully remove the meat from each side of a saddle of lamb, cutting it out in lengthwise pieces. Trim away any sinews. Cut each piece crosswise into 4 or 6 slices and saute the slices in good fat or broil them for 3 to 5 minutes on each side. The meat should be a little pink when done à point. Place a slice of sautéed goose liver on each piece of meat and on the goose liver place a slice of truffle.
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