ALFREDO ALLA SCROFA-Via della Scrofa, 104: Many years ago. when our own Doug and Mary (Fairbanks and Pick ford. that is), enraptured by the ceremony and the taste of Roman egg noodles, presented a gold mixing fork and spoon to Alfredo the Alfredo mind you, the King of fettuccine-they set off quite unwittingly a barrage of culinary hocus-pocus which can only be rivaled by the numbered ducks at the Tour d'Argent. The pompous theatrics of mixing these innocent, delectable fettuccine, turned the dish into a vaudeville head liner and packed in the customers. Now there are three Alfredo's, two of them deadly rivals. Each displays a wall packed with autographed pictures of the stars, crested testimonials from the nobility and a five-foot shelf of autograph books. Vaudeville isn't dead, and the fettuccine ceremony is definitely worth seeing. But we certainly aren't going to send you to all three Alfredos! Faced with a choice, we prefer Alfredo alla Scrofa, whose proprietor is an ex-waiter of the exalted original. The place is not pretentious; it is pleasant and the service is good. The fettuccine is superb and the turkey breast with truffles, another classic specialty, is flawless. We have a genuine fondness for the place, in spite of the overhead lights, which are bright enough for an operating room, and a sallow, lugubrious string trio.
CASINA VALADIER Pincio: Paris may have its chic restaurants set in theBois de Boulogne or framed in the verdure of the Champs-Elysées, but Rome has the same thing plus a superlative view. For decides the classic old Casina Valadier, perched at the edge of the lofty Pincio Gardens, has provided discriminating guests (among them Nathaniel Hawthorne) with a charming setting, commendable food and wine, and a thrilling panorama of the city, dominated by the dome of St. Peter's. Newcomers to Rome owe it to themselves to sit under the awnings of this long established casino-in-the-park at least once. The atmosphere is gay. the people are attractive, and the cooking is on a lofty level, with prices only a little above the average. And maybe you'll sit next to Shelley Winters, as we did.
BIBLIOTECA DEL VALLE-Largo Teatro Valle, 7: Most present-day Romans prefer a gay evening to a solemn gastronomic ritual. Music of some sort, from a lone guitar to a six-piece orchestra, will await you in many Roman restaurants. Sometimes it is so deafening that it kills the appetite and makes a shambles of conversation. Other times it is discreet and pleasant. The Biblioteca del Valle falls in between these extremes, and you'll probably enjoy it. It is a Bohemian sort of place, in a basement in the heart of the theatre district. The name, of course, means library, and the “books” consist of bottles of wine standing behind none too robust iron bars. The sommelier is not in the least concerned about the fact that they should be lying on their sides in less tumultuous surroundings. It's a gag, and a pleasant one, and the Roman cosmopolites have been sampling volumes from these walls for decades. They arrive late, sing later, and dance after that. A glistening cocktail and apéritif wagon starts them off, and a very special white wine. Acqua di Trevi, cakes over when a thin-faced mariner comes by with a tray of sea food-lobsters, oysters and clams. By the time the cannelloni appears in the company of a fiasco of Chianti the air is thick with smoke and song, and everybody's happy. For a festive evening and not too disconcerting a check, the Biblioteca has much to offer. The food? Oh yes, it's remarkably good.
NINO-Via Borgognona, 11: Carnivorous man has his innings in this shrine of Tuscan beef, not far from the Piazza di Spagna. Nino is famous for its steaks, and those who crave a monumental bistecca alla fiorentina, beautifully grilled over charcoal, could find no better place in Rome. The size of the larger steaks is strictly up to the customer-they charge by the kilo. Those who order the largest one would do well to bring Primo Camera along as a guest. Needless to say, he has been there often, There are daily specials chez Nino, from osso buco on Monday to chicken croquettes on Sunday, and the Chianti is superb, as might be expected in a Tuscan establishment. The “atmosphere” in Nino's is nearly non-existent high vaulted ceilings, no décor, no music, nothing to detract from the solitary splendor of that gorgeous steak.
ROMA-Piazza Poli, 38: This is very much in the tradition of an old Continental restaurant conventional, quiet, spotless, and patronized utmost exclusively by discriminating Romans. It dates from the late '90s, to judge by the decor. There is not the slightest hint of music. The service is particularly attentive, Two skilled restaurateurs in pinstriped suits took wonderful care of us, and everybody else. We tried a risotto alla fregoli, a soul-warming prelude, followed by a handsome sôle meunière and a filetto alla rossini, both beyond reproach. The Ristorante Roma produces a thriving, shaded sidewalk terrace during the summer months. For a highly civilized dinner at reasonable prices, and in a central location (just off the busy Via Tritone) this is one of the best.
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