The real wild ducks shot by hunters are to be preferred to the domesticated wild ones raised on game farms. The flavor of the true wild birds is better, their breasts are larger and plumper, and they have more blood, which is an important ingredient in making the sauce for them. Wild ducks ate always cooked rare, and usually only the breasts are served. In carving the breasts every drop of blood that runs out should be saved for the sauce, and added to the juices extracted when the carcass is crushed. Any restaurant which serves much game has a duck press to squeeze the carcass and obtain the blood and juice needed for the sauce. Few homes can boast a duck press, but you can accomplish almost the same thing by running the chopped-up carcass through the meat grinder, using the coarsest blade, and straining the extracted juice through a fine sieve.
Making a terrine of foie gras will be a new experience, I know, to many of you. You can of course buy pâté de foie gras for this course, but if you can obtain fresh goose liver, you will certainly impress your guests if you make your own terrine. The best goose liver comes from specially fattened geese, and you can recognize the quality of the liver by its color, the finest having a creamy color with just the slightest tinge of pink. The liver should be firm, not overly soft. The most renowned goose liver comes from Alsace or Toulouse in France, and sometimes the livers weigh as much as three to four pounds, although two and one-half pounds is considered a good weight.
If the finished pate is to be kept for some time, it should be unmolded when it has cooled and the terrine thoroughly washed and dried and the bottom and sides spread with lard. Then after the molded mixture is returned to the terrine, more fat should be spread over the top, and each rime the pate is sliced, the exposed surface should be spread with fat so that it will be completely sealed.
Although the hostess takes over all the responsibility for the menu and its execution—from the marketing to the sealing of her guests—the host must nor forger that he too has responsibilities, and very important ones. He supervises the cellar—I mean, naturellement, the wines, the whites and reds and some rosés, apéritifs, sherry, Dubonnet, Madeira, a bottle or two of port, some champagne for special occasions, a good cognac, and at least a small selection of other liqueurs. When host and hostess have worked together on their party plans, you will find that a specially good dinner is insured. The foods selected, the tine preparation of the dishes, do and should take the place of honor, but the wine is the soul of the meal, its life—la joie—and brings out good fellowship and joy in the gathering.
Everyone should know that white wines are served cold, preferably from coolers filled with ice, and served in chilled glasses. Champagne is traditionally served this way, and in many fastidious households it is customary to place a cube of ice in each glass and remove the ice just before pouring in the champagne. Red wines, however, are best served at room temperature, which is needed to bring out their bouquet.
For this November menu I suggest a Vouvray or dry sauterne, imported or domestic, with the fish; a Volnay or Corton with the wild duck; and Chateau Lafite or a St. Estèphe with the turkey. After the turkey, the champagne may be opened, unless you want to serve another wine with the terrine; in that case, I recommend a red Château Haut Brion. And finally, there is nothing more suitable for an after-coffee finish to this harvest repast than cognac or another preferred liqueur.
Potage Saint-Germain (French Pea Soup)
Sunk 2 cups split peas in water to cover for 2 hours. Drain and put the peas in a deep saucepan with 4 cups water and 1 teaspoon salt. firing the water to a boil, skim, and cook slowly, Covered. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a saucepan and in it saute ½ cup diced fat salt pork and 1 onion, finely chopped. until the onion is golden. Add 1 carrot and the green part of 2 leeks, both chopped. 1 cup chopped spinach or lettuce leaves, half a small bay leaf, and a little thyme. Cook for a few minutes and add to the split peas. Continue cooking for about 1 hour, or until the peas are soft. Rub the soup through a fine sieve and if the mixture seems very thick, add 1 cup boiling water or chicken stock, Bring the soup again to a boil and skim. Correct the seasoning with salt and add I teaspoon sugar. If fresh peas are available, cook 1 cup. rub through a sieve to make a puree. and add it to the soup. Stir in 1 tablespoon butter and ½ cup fresh cream and serve the soup with croutons made by sautéing small dice of fresh bread it) butter.
Sole de la Manche Sautée aux Fines Herbes (Sautéed Channel Sole with Herb Butter)
Clean 2 whole sole, each weighing from 1 l/4 to 1 ½ pounds, and remove the heads, the rails, and the skin from both sides. Trim off the edges. Dip the fish in milk, drain, and dredge well in flour. Then shake off the surplus Hour. Heat oil or clarified butter in a shallow pan and in it sauté the fish for 15 to 18 minutes, or until they are golden brown on both sides. When done, the flesh will separate easily from the bones. Remove the fish from the pan, Carefully lift off the top filets and remove the backbones. They will lift out easily if the fish are properly cooked. Season the lower filets with a little salt, trim again to make the edges neat all around, and replace the top filets. Place the fish on a serving dish and keep warm.
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