Tricks of my Trade

Meat specialties such as liver and kidneys are suitable for sautéing, and are both quick and easy to do.

Foie de Porc aux Oignons ( Port Liter with Onions)

In a frying pan sauté 2 onions, sliced. in 2 tablespoons butter until they are golden and tender. Season 8 thin slices pork liver with salt and pepper and rub them with flour. Melt some pork fat in another pan and in it saute the liver over a quick fire for about 3 to 4 minutes, or until it is brown on both sides. Remove the liver to a serving dish and pour off the fat from the pan. To the pan add 2 tablespoons vinegar and the cooked onions. Bring to a boil, stirring, and pour onions and vinegar over the liver. Sprinkle with parsley. Serves 4.

Rognom de Veau Sautés (Sautéed Veal Kidneys)

Remove the membrane and trim the surplus fat from 4 veal kidneys. leaving just enough fat to keep the kidneys moist. Split the kidneys in half, but don't cut them all the way through, and open them so that they lie flat. Season the kidneys with salt and pepper and rub them with flour. In a frying pan melt 4 to 6 tablespoons butter. Cook the kidneys in the butter, over moderate heat, partly covered, for about 10 to 12 minutes on each side, or until they are golden brown and tender. Arrange the kidneys on a serving planer and pour over them some of the butter from the pan. Add ½ cup veal gravy or chicken stock to the pan and cook, stirring in all the brown crustiness. Pour the pan gravy over the kidneys. Serves 4.

Rognons de Veau Sautés aux Champignons (Sautéed Veal Kidneys with Mushrooms)

Remove the membrane and fat from 4 veal kidneys, cur them into small pieces, and season with salt and pepper. In a frying pun heat the fat removed from the kidneys, Cook the kidneys in this fat over a quick fire for about 5 minutes, and turn into a colander to drain. Discard all the fat in the pan, add 2 tablespoons butter and 1 onion, chopped, and cook until the onion begins to turn golden. Add ½ pound mushrooms, cleaned and sliced, and cook until the mushrooms are soft. Stir in 1 tablespoon flour, ¼ cup white or red wine, 1 cup cooked tomatoes, and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, and cook, stirring, until the sauce thickens. Add the kidneys and cook until they are heated through, without letting the sauce boil. Serves 4.

Rognons d'Agneau Sautés (Sautéed Lamb Kidneys)

Trim all the far from 8 lamb kidneys, peel off the thin membrane covering them, and season with salt and pepper. In a frying pan heat 2 tablespoons fat, sauté the kidneys in it over a quick fire for 2 to 3 minutes, and turn them into a colander to drain. In the pan put 2 tablespoons butter and ½ pound mushrooms, whole or sliced, and saute the mushrooms until they are soft. Stir in 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallot or onion, 1 tablespoon flour, ½ cup cooked tomatoes, and 2 tablespoons good meat gravy and cook, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens. Simmer the sauce for 10 minutes longer, correct the seasoning with salt, and add a scant ¼ cup sherry or Madeira. Add the kidneys and cook until they are heated through. without letting the sauce boil. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon chopped parsley. If ½ cup brown sauce (see April, 1952) and 2 tablespoons tomato sauce or puree are used instead of the cooked tomatoes and gravy, the flour may be omitted.

Any cuts of beef or lamb which are usually broiled may also be sautéed. In this case, they should he cut thinner. The filet of beef is cut into tournedos 1 to 1 ½ inches thick, and the lamb chops are cut 1 inch thick. The first rib of beef, just the thickness of the bone, is a popular cut abroad for sautéing.

To Sauté Tournedos of Beef, Minute Steak, or Lamb Chops

Season the meat with salt and pepper. Melt enough butter in a frying pan to cover the bottom of the pan well. Put in the meat and cook over a quick fire for 2 to 5 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the meat and the degree of doneness desired. Remove the meat to a serving dish and to the pan add ¼ to ½ cup stock or water. Cook until the liquid is reduced to half, stirring in all the brown crustiness in the pan. Add 1 tablespoon butter, swirling it in by moving the pan with a circular motion, and cook until it is just inched. Red or white wine may be used instead of the water or stock.

Emincé de Boeuf an Vin Rouge (Hamburgers in Red Wine)

Add 3 tablespoons water or cream and a little salt to I ½ pounds very lean chopped beef, mix well, and shape the mixture gently into cakes. The added moisture and the light handling insure succulent hamburgers. In a frying pan heat enough suet or fat to cover the bottom generously. Samé the hamburgers in the fat for 3 to 4 minutes on each side for rare, longer for very thick or for well-done cakes.

Arrange the hamburgers on a serving dish. Discard the fat from the pan and add 1 tablespoon butter and 1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot or onion and cook until the onion is soft. Add ¼ cup red wine and cook until the wine is slightly reduced, stirring in all the brown crustiness in the pan. Pour the pan gravy over the meat.

Côte de Boeuf Sautée (Sautéed Rib of Beef)

Have a butcher cut the first rib from a roast of beef. It will probably be about 1 inch thick and weigh 2 pounds or a little more. If the rib is very long, have it trimmed about an inch longer than the meat. In a frying pan heat enough beef suet or veal far to cover the bottom generously. Sear the meat in the fat over a quick fire until it is golden brown on both sides. Discard the fat from the pan and season the meat with sale Add 2 tablespoons butter to the pan. reduce the heat, and cook for 30 to 35 minutes. The meat will be medium rare. Remove the meat to a serving dish, add 2/3 cup stock or water to the pan, and cook until the liquid is reduced to ½ cup, stirring in all the brown crustiness in the pan, Serve with the meat. Serves 4.