Poulet Sauté aux Morilles
Wash 1 pound morilles very thoroughly, making sure to wash every bit of Sand from the crevices. Cook them in a saucepan with 2 tablespoons butter, 1 teaspoon lemon juice, a few spoonfuls of water, and a little salt for about 8 to 10 minutes, or until almost all the water has evaporated.
Prepare a 2 ½- to 3-pound chicken for sautéing. In a large frying pan spread 3 tablespoons butter and arrange the pieces of chicken skin side down on it. Cook over medium heat until the skin is brown. Turn the pieces and cook, partly covered, for about 25 to 30 minutes. Remove the breast meat to a hot serving platter and cook the remaining pieces for 5 to 10 minutes longer, or until they are done. Remove the remaining pieces to the platter with the breast meat, and to the juices in the pan add I tablespoon chopped shallots or onion, I clove of garlic, crushed, and 1 teaspoon flour. Add the morilles and their juice. 2 to 3 tablespoons chicken gravy, if available, and ¼ cup tomato sauce (see April, 1952). Stir well and cook for 5 minutes longer. Correct the seasoning with salt and add a little freshly ground pepper and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. Return the chicken to the pan and simmer for 5 to 10 minutes. Arrange the chicken on a serving platter and pour over it the sauce and morilles. Serves 4.
Poulet Sauté Gloria Swanson
Prepare a 2 ½- to 3-pound chicken for sautéing. In a large frying pan spread 2 tablespoons butter and arrange the pieces of chicken skin side down on it. Cook over medium beat until the skin is golden brown. Turn the pieces and cook for 5 to 6 minutes. Add 8 to 10 mushrooms and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in 1 teaspoon chopped shallot or onion and 1 tablespoon flour and cook a few minutes longer. Add ¼ cup white wine, ½ cup cream, and a fagot made by tying together 3 sprigs of parsley, a bay leaf, salt, and a little thyne, and cook slowly, partly covered, for about 25 to 30 minutes, or until the chicken is done.
Discard the fagot. Stir into the sauce 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten with ½ cup warm cream. Shake and move the pan. off the fire, so the sauce will not curdle. Arrange the chicken on a serving dish and pour the sauce over it. Garnish the platter with 4 tomatoes, cut in half, sautéed in a little butter, and sprinkled with parsley, and with small molds of rice pilaf topped with slices of truffle. Serves 4.
You will notice that all these dishes are moist, that the sauce is important and that it is served over the chicken; all this is typical of a French sautéed chicken. Those who prefer chicken otherwise should always roast or broil their birds. The sauce, however, is a real addition, giving character and flavor by combining shallots, wine, perhaps tomatoes in many recipes. The variations are endless, and chefs add new ones to their menus all the time, naming them for favorite guests or special events.
The late spring and summer is the time to sauté squab—or what the French call pigeonneaux —and also young guinea hens, called pintadeaux. They are the little birds that are so young they have not yet left the nest. In June pintadeaux are served with the cherries which ripen then. Squab and guinea hen arc tiny and very tender, and must be cooked very quickly. Allow one of the little birds for each serving.
Pigeonneaux or Pintadeaux Sautés (Sautéed Squab or Baby Guinea Hens)
Split and clean 4 squab and season them with salt. Melt enough butter in a frying pan to cover the bottom generously. Arrange the squab skin side down in the butter and sauté until they are golden brown. Turn the squab and cook the other side, partly covered, until done. Test by piercing the second joint with a fork, and if the juice which comes out is clear with no pink tinge, the birds are done. It should take 18 to 20 minutes. Arrange the birds on a serving dish and pour over them a little melted butter. To the juices in the pan add 1/3 cup stock or water and cook until the liquid is reduced to half, stirring in all the brown crustiness from the pan. Pour the pan gravy over the birds. Serves 4.
Pintadeaux aux Cerises(Baby Guinea Hens wish Cherries)
Pit 3 cups black cherries, reserving the pits. Put the cherries and the pits, tied in cheesecloth, in a saucepan with 2 ounces kirsch and ¼ cup water. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer gently for several minutes until the cherries are tender.
Clean and split 4 young guinea hens and season them with salt and pepper, In a large frying pan melt 3 tablespoons butter and arrange the birds skin side down on it. Cook until the skin is golden brown. Turn them and cook on the other side, partly covered, until done. Test by piercing the second joint with a fork, and if the juice is clear with no pink tinge, the birds are done. it should take about 20 to 25 minutes. Arrange the guinea hens on a serving dish. Discard the pits from the cherries and pour cherries and juice into a pan in which the birds were sautéed. Bring to a boil, stirring, and pour sauce and cherries over the birds. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons warm cognac and ignite. Serve flaming. Serves 4.
Young turkeys are sautéed like chicken. It takes 30 to 40 minutes or longer to cook them, depending upon their size. They are split before cooking and served with gravy made from the juice in the pan and usually with a puree made of corn or mushrooms or other vegetables. One popular way of preparing young turkeys at the old Ritz was to cut them into pieces after they had been sautéed, coal the spices of turkey with a vegetable purée and then with a light Mornay sauce, and brown the coating under the broiler.
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