Broiling is a quick way to cook, but because it is a quick way it is an exacting one. In some instances even a minute or two of overcooking may spoil the results. Or the wrong temperature-not hot enough for a thick piece of beef, too hot for a thin fish filet-may cause disappointment. It is practice that gives you an understanding of the heat of broiler grills and practice that develops your ability to tell how long to broil different foods. Then there is the problem of smoke; as long as you have fat and fire in close proximity you most certainly will have smoke. To minimize this smoking, trim off all surplus fat from the meat, leaving only enough to protect the edges. Another problem is caused when fat from broiling food drips onto the wood or charcoal fire beneath and bursts into flame. The chef keeps the flames under control with water. He dips a small whisk broom, kept just for this purpose, into water and shakes it over the fire-using only enough water, however, to quiet the flames without extinguishing the glowing embers.
The dark meats are best suited, I believe, to broiling-beef, lamb, English mutton, and some of the big game. Have the broiler very hot, spread the meat with butter or good fat, and season it with a little salt. When it is done on one side, turn, spread the other side with butter or fat, season with salt, and finish broiling. Never pierce the flesh with a fork to turn it. Use a spatula or put the fork into the fat at the edge. Most people like red meats rate. If you look carefully, you will notice that when the meat reaches the medium-rare stage, tiny drops of pink juice appear on the surface of the side being cooked. When the meat is touched lightly with the first and second fingers, it is firm but still retains a noticeable springiness. If it feels soft it is not done; if it is quite firm, it is too well done. Always cook a piece of meat less than an inch thick very quickly, over a good hot fire. For a thicker piece, turn down the heat a little-sprinkle a few ashes over too hot a charcoal fire-so that the outside won't be unpleasantly scorched before the meat is cooked. A cut of meat more than three inches thick is best finished in the oven after it has been browned on both sides.
There are a few people who like steaks and chops well cooked. I remember that a guest at the old Ritz once sent some chops back for more cooking and the grill chef was so indignant that his idea of perfection was questioned that he threw them on the grill and left them there until they were practically burned. The waiter was reluctant to take the chops back to the dining room. He said he was afraid they would be thrown at his head. I learned later that the guest had been delighted and had given the waiter an extra tip for serving the chops just the way he liked them!
White meats should be well-done and should be cooked slowly, with moderate heat. Broiled spring chicken is very good, as is baby lamb. But most people prefer veal and pork cooked in other ways.
If you want to broil veal, have the meat cut not more than one-half inch thick. Flour it on both sides and brush it well with butter. This gives a nice golden color, and if the heat is kept moderate, the veal will be juicy, even though it must be cooked until it is welldone. Calf's liver should also be floured and brushed with butter before broiling; usually it is cooked medium-rare.
To broil chicken, spread the skin side with butter, season it with salt, and broil the skin side first. Then turn the chicken over, brush the underside with butter, season with salt, and broil, brushing often with butter. Test by pricking the second joint with a fork. The juice which comes out should be clear and have no pink tinge.
Although broiling is a good way to cook almost any fish, it is especially good for the fatty varieties. Cut tiny incisions in the top of small whole fish or filets.otherwise the heat causes the fish to contract and curl the edges. Flour the fish well, shake off any surplus flour, spread it with melted butter or oil, and lay it on a very hot grill. Turn down the heat and broil the fish until it flakes easily. brushing it frequently with butter or oil. If the grill is hot enough, the fish will not require turning. Having the grill very, very hoc helps to prevent the fish from sticking to the grill, The flour forms a crust which browns attractively and helps to keep the fish from breaking after it is cooked. Then, with two spatulas, the fish can be loosened carefully from the grill or broiler pan and lifted intact to the serving dish.
liven with all these tricks it takes an expert with some years of experience to handle a whole shad or salmon. It is better to have shad boned at the fish store and cut into pieces that are easy to handle, and salmon should be sliced into steaks about an inch thick.
There are two broiled specialties that intrigue amateur chefs; The first is à la diable or diable -or, in English, deviled. Favorite à la diable dishes are beef ribs and chicken, which first earned their reputation as a supper dish in English clubs. The diable mixture of butter, mustard. Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper, and bread crumbs is spread over the cooked meat, which is then browned under a broiler. Some like CO add a little anchovy paste to the mixture, others a little curry powder. Leftover cooked meat is warmed just a little in the oven or broiler before it is spread with the seasoned bread crumb coating. A somewhat similar dish is baby lamb persillé. In this case a very young, tender lamb breast is broiled until done, then covered with bread crumbs mixed with chopped parsley, sprinkled with butter, and put back on the broiler to brown the crust.
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