1950s Archive

Tricks of my Trade

continued (page 3 of 6)

Pois à l'Etuvée (Braised Peas)

Put 2 cups of shelled fresh peas in a saucepan with 6 small spring onions, 5 leaves of lettuce, finely shredded, a faggot of 3 sprigs of parsley and 2 sprigs of chervil, ¼ teaspoon salt, I te-spoonsugar, 2 tablespoons butter, and ¼ cup water. Cut a small hole in the center of a round of wax or buttered paper and place the circle on top of the ingredients in the pan. Cover the pan closely, bring the liquid to a boil, and cook for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the peas are render and the liquid is reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Discard the faggot. Thicken the liquid by swirling in 2 tablespoons butter or 1te-spoon butter creamed with ¼ teaspoon flour. Do not stir the peas, which crushes them, but move the pan over (he fire in a circular motion. Cook for another minute or two and serve immediately.

Rouelle de Veau à l'Etuvée (Casserole of Braised Veal)

Divide a slice of veal, cur ¾ inch thick and weighing 2 ½ to 3 pounds, into 12 pieces. Season the pieces with salt and pepper and roll in flour. Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a shallow pan and cook the veal in it, a few pieces at a time, until golden brown. Put the pieces in a casserole as they brown. Put 6 small onions and 6 small carrots in the fat in the pan, cover, and cook slowly until they start to turn golden, then transfer them to the casserole. Add to the fat 1 teaspoon chopped shallot or onion and 1 teaspoon flour and cook slowly, stirring constantly, until the flour is brown. Stir in gradually ½ cup red wine and cook until well blended. Add 2 cups water, bring the sauce to a boil, and pour it over the meat and vegetes. Add a faggot of 1 stalk of celery. 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 small bay leaf, and a little thyme. Cover the casserole closely and cook very slowly for 1¼ to 1½ hours, or until the meat is tender. Discard the faggot, taste, and sprinkle with parsley.

Carbonnade de Boeuf Flande (Beef Slew Flamande)

Cut a 2 ½ pound piece of rump of beef into 12 to 16 slices and flatten each slice with a mallet. Sauté 3 large onions, chopped, in 2 tablespoons butter in a saucepan until they are soft and golden. Stir in 2 tablespoons flour. Heat 2 tablespoons beef or veal fat in a skillet and sauté the meat, a few pieces at a rime. As soon as the pieces are brown, remove them to a plate. When all have been cooked, pour off the fat in the pan. add 2 tablespoons vinegar, and stir to dissolve the browned juices in the pan. Add 1 cup beer, 3 cups stock, and 1 teaspoon sugar and boil.

Put a layer of the cooked onions in the bottom of the casserole, add some of the sauce from the skillet and a layer of the browned meat slices. Continue to add layers of onions, sauce, and meat until all the ingredients are used. Add a faggot of 1 stalk of celery, 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 bay leaf, and a little thyme. About 4 tablespoons of tomato sauce may be added. Strain the remaining gravy over all and add any juice that is left on the meat plate. There should be just enough liquid to cover the contents. If necessary, add a little water. Cover the casserole with a lid that has a small hole in (he top and seal the edges with a stiff paste made of flour and water. Bring to a boil and cook in a slow oven (325° F.) for 2 to 2 ½ hours. Serve from the casserole.

Boeuf en Daube (Beef Slew)

Lord a 2 ½ pound piece of rump beef, then cut it into 12 or 16 small pieces. Season the pieces with salt and pepper and put them in a bowl with a generous ½ cup red wine and 1 te-spoon chopped shallots or onion. Let the meal marinate for 2 hours. Drain off and save the marinade, dry the meat well, and sauté the pieces in 5 te-spoons beef fat until lightly browned on all sides.

Parboil ¼ pound fat salt pork, diced, in water to cover for 3 to -4 minutes. Drain and saute the dice until golden brown. Spread a few beef or veal bones or both in a shallow pan. put the pan in a hot oven (450° F.), and bake until the bones brown lightly. Put the bones in a clay casserole, add half the browned meat 1 carrot, sliced, 1 onion. chopped, 2 cloves of crushed garlic, and half the sautéd pork dice. Add a faggot of 1 stalk of celery, 3 sprigs of [Mrsley, 1 bay leaf, and a little thyme. Add the remaining meat, another carrot, sliced, another onion, chopped, and the remaining pork dice. Add the reserved marinade and about 2 cups stock, or enough just to cover the meat with liquid. Lay 4 thin slices of salt pork on top.

Cover the casserole with a lid that has a small hole in the top as a steam vent and seal the edges with a stiff paste made of flour and water. Bring to a boil and cook in a slow oven (325° F.) for 3 to 3 ½ hours. Unseal the casserole and remove the cover. Skim the fat from the surface and discard the faggot. Serve the stew from the casserole, sprinkled with 1te-spoon chopped parsley.

For serving bouef en daube cold, skim the fat from the surface and discard the bones as well as the faggot. Goodand chill thoroughly in the refrigerator until the contents jell. Cut the jellied beef into slices before serving.

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