1950s Archive

Food Flashes

continued (page 2 of 3)

Most exciting moment at the fabulous Maxim's was watching a waiter get the peel from a peach, With the back side of a silver knife the fruit was defuzzed, then peeled so thin the blush of the check tinted the flesh. The peach was served whole on a grape leaf, finely granulated sugar passed for a brief sprinkle. Here the field strawberries were poured directly from leaf-lined basket to plate. Then came that thick Normandy cream, take little or much. Very alluring the little berries when sprinkled with champagne, then a dusting of sugar.

Wild strawberries are being flown to New York, selling forty-eight hours after picking at Bloomingdale's and the R. H. Macy groceries. The 8 ½-ounce bacskets sell for about 85 cents.

Petits fours of fruits and nuts bedded On fondant or resting on marzipan, then glacéed, are made in the Maxim kitchen. No better are made in all of Paris. Exact duplicates arc offered by Henri's, 15 East Fifty-second Street, New York City, selling at $3 a pound, but only during the cool months.

One of the oldest and finest delicacy stores in all of Paris is the Ancienne Maison Corcellet, 18, avenue de l'Opéra. Here on marble counters and shelves are the food treasures of France. Eyes skim groceries; we make hasty jottings: canned snails, Capitain Cook filet of herring in while wine sauce, quenelles of many kinds, of pike, crawfish, veal, and chicken; cassoulets from the various provinces. Let the pencil fiy: breast of goosc in jelly with truffles, pâté of thrush, veal and pork in jelly, canned mushrooms, cépes, eels, pâté de foie gras. Entire tables are given over to the fine mustards, the fancy French vinegars, honey cakes, and wine biscuits. Chocolate is here from every important chocolate-making city of Europe; Bar-le-Duc jellies, both the red and white. It was only with difficulty that we kept our hend and escaped without an armload of exotic groceries to carry home. And no point to this, for everything there sells here in New York.

Gazing at the preserved fruit, we had a strong conviction that in the States we do a superior packing job by the orchard wares. Look at the Raffetto line, for example. Can you imagine fruits anywhere more beautiful in jar or on plate? And the taste is perfection!

Gourmets on a visit to Paris must, without fail, visit the cheese store Brussol-Creplet, 17, place de la Madeleine. Never again will you see so many French cheeses or such unusual ones collected in one tiny shop. Five o'clock daily, a line at the door waiting to buy. Cheeses crowd the long marble counter that runs the length of the store. A symphony of smells is played for the nose. You must see this shop for yourself, smell it for yourself, be confounded by the mingling of the peculiar perfumes that cither asphyxiate or enliven. And that reminds us of Saint-Aubin pure white goat cheese handled by Bellows Gourmets' Bazaar, 67 Hast 52nd Street, New York. A Frenchman, a landscape architect in France before he bought a farm in the U.S.A., is responsible for this snow-white cheese that resembles the Saint-Marcelin from its native Jura. It is made from the milk of a certified herd of Swiss goats that look as impeccable as while violets. Try it with black Greek or Italian olives and dry Martinis. It is mild, crumbly, with just enough bite to be ideal summer eating.

Cuff note, H. J. Heinz gets around. The foods of this line arc met in virtually every Paris food store handling imports. The pickles, the sauces, the soups, usually rate front-window position.

In every bakeshop window of Paris, French pastries held forth; tray load on tray load of mouth-watering little sweets In every imaginable and unimaginable shape. Each time we tasted, we said to ourselves, “Mrs. Klein can do belter.” We were thinking of Mrs. Kornreich Klein in the States, there in Milwaukee. At Christmas time a line waits down the block at the Klein bakery door to buy the holiday cookies. People in Wisconsin drive miles to get a box of these butler-rich wafers to use for holiday gifts and to pass with the punch.

Now these fragile sweets go traveling by mail. A unique package has been developed to carry the cookies without breakage. To solve the travel problem, each piece is individually sealed in a double ribbon of Cellophane. The ribbon strips are rested On their sides in a heavy cardboard box with .separators for arrival without casualties—135 cookies of maybe 25 shapes. Another advantage of the packaging is that these individually enveloped cookies keep fresh in their wrapper until ready to use.

Cookies from the hands of experienced bakers, made with the finest of ingredients; we mean things like 93-score butler, grade A large eggs, pure fruit preserves, everything quality. Good eating, good looking on the plate, these are sweets to remember for teas and re ceptions, a nice gift for a shut-in or convalescent or for the children at camp. At your next dinner party serve the Milwaukee cookies along with ice cream; they crumble butter-rich in the mouth. Send check or money order (no C.O.D.'s) to Mrs. Kornreich Klein, 2853 North Third Street. Milwaukee, Wisconsin; the price, $4.95 for eleven dozen cookies.

Its name is Coconut Snow. It spoons from the tin, a powdery white stuff—coconut finely ground, blended with whole milk solids, with cane sugar, with dextrose. You add it, to taste, wherever coconut's true flavor is wanted. Experiment: Use it in cream pies, in puddings. In coconut, the orange recognizes a faithful affinity; when the two come together, they yield a new flavor. Cut the orange in thin slices crosswise, lay them in a bowl with a very little sugar and a generous sprinkling of Coconut Snow.

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